Rayon or Polyester Embroidery Thread – Which to Choose

Polkom
Вискозен или полиестерен конец за бродерия – кой да изберем

Rayon or polyester embroidery thread? If the product is washed often, at high temperatures or with bleaching agents – choose polyester. If you are looking for a soft, silky sheen and the richest palette for fashion garments with delicate washing – rayon. Both types are sewn with the same thickness and needle, so the difference lies in how the product behaves after months of use, not on the machine.

Rayon or polyester embroidery thread: the main difference

Rayon (viscose) is regenerated cellulose – it is made from wood pulp and is chemically close to cotton. Polyester is a synthetic polymer. Thread manufacturers make polyester embroidery thread to look like rayon: a smooth filament, high gloss, saturated colour. That is why at first glance the two embroideries look almost identical. The differences show up with washing, abrasion and exposure to light.

CriterionRayonPolyester
SheenSoft, deep, "silky"Strong, slightly cooler
SoftnessVery softSoft, slightly stiffer in dense fills
StrengthGoodHigher
Chlorine bleachFadesResistant
Washing at 60 °C and aboveNot recommendedWithstands it
LightfastnessMediumHigh
IroningMedium temperatureLow to medium, through a cloth
Typical productFashion garments, decorative textilesUniforms, workwear, towels, children's clothing

When to choose rayon

  • Fashion collections where the embroidery is a highlight and a luxurious look is wanted.
  • Delicate fabrics – silk, viscose, fine knits, where the softer thread does not burden the fabric.
  • Complex colour transitions – rayon palettes usually have many very close shades.
  • Products for hand or delicate washing – dresses, blouses, decorative cushions.

Rayon is also more pleasant to the touch on the reverse side, which matters when the embroidery is on a neckline, cuff or upper part of the garment that touches the skin.

When to choose polyester

  • Workwear and uniforms – industrial washing, chlorine-based detergents, high-temperature drying.
  • Hotel and hospital towels, bed linen – repeated washing at 60–90 °C.
  • Sports kits – sweat, abrasion, frequent washing.
  • Children's clothing – frequent wash cycles and tough stains.
  • Outdoor products – caps, jackets, bags exposed to the sun.

Polyester is also more tolerant of the high speed of multi-head machines, which matters for large runs.

Myth: rayon is "higher quality"

You often hear that rayon is the premium choice and polyester a cheap substitute. That is not accurate. Both types come in different quality grades. A good polyester embroidery thread has excellent gloss and softness and in most cases lasts longer. Rayon has the edge in softness and depth of colour, but if the product is not intended for delicate washing, this advantage disappears after a few washes.

How colourfastness is checked

If you work for a client with specific requirements – for example a company that washes its workwear in an industrial laundry – do not rely solely on the thread description. Do your own test: embroider a small sample on the same fabric, wash it several times on the programme the client will use, and compare it with an unwashed sample in daylight. Pay attention to three things:

  • Change of shade – whether the colour has faded or changed tone.
  • Staining of the fabric – whether the thread has bled around the embroidery, especially with red and navy shades on a white background.
  • Surface – whether there are fluffed-up filaments, loss of gloss or "fuzz" on the fill.

Industrial tests for colourfastness to washing, rubbing and light are carried out to the ISO 105 series of standards, but for most practical decisions a home test with the real wash programme is telling enough. Keep the test samples – they are a useful reference for repeat orders and in the event of a complaint from the client. Mark each sample with the thread type, colour number, date and wash programme.

Can they be combined in one design

Yes, it is technically possible – the thickness and needle are the same. But combining them is risky with washing: the rayon areas will fade faster than the polyester ones and the logo will look uneven. If you combine them, do it deliberately – for example a metallic accent on a polyester base – and check the care instructions for the whole product.

How to decide for a company logo

  1. Ask how the garment will be washed. If the answer is "in a washing machine, often" or "industrially" – polyester.
  2. Check whether the corporate colour exists in both types. Sometimes the exact shade is only available in one palette.
  3. Make a sample on the real fabric. The thread colour looks different on white cotton and on dark fleece.
  4. Record the chosen article and colour number so that you can repeat the order without deviations.

You will find both types in the embroidery threads category. For the construction seams of the same product choose suitable sewing threads, and put the care and composition information on care and composition labels – they should also state how the embroidered product is to be washed.

Which thread for your embroidery – advice from Polkom

Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer and wholesaler of sewing accessories with over 30 years of experience. We help embroidery workshops and brands choose between rayon and polyester according to the product, washing and colour, match shades to a sample or Pantone and provide samples. We deliver throughout the EU, and minimum quantities depend on the article. Write to us via Contact.

FAQ

Frequently asked questions

Does rayon embroidery thread fade in the wash?
With delicate washing at low temperatures rayon thread holds its colour well. With chlorine bleach, strong detergents and frequent washing at 60 °C and above, the colours gradually fade and the thread weakens. So for products with intensive washing, such as uniforms, towels and children's clothing, polyester thread is the more suitable choice.
Is the machine set-up different for rayon and polyester?
The basic set-up is the same: a 75/11 needle for weight 40 and the same design density. Polyester is slightly stronger and more elastic, so it sometimes needs marginally higher top-thread tension. Rayon is more sensitive to rough thread guides and worn needles. Always do a test embroidery when changing thread type.
What does "rayon" on the thread label mean?
Rayon is the English name for viscose, also known as artificial silk. It is a fibre of regenerated cellulose obtained from wood. Threads labelled rayon have a soft, silky sheen and are used mainly for decorative embroidery. Do not confuse rayon with natural silk, which is an animal protein and has different properties.
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