Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Secret buttons for coats are large sew-on snap buttons that hold the inner placket, lapels, and collar in place without being visible from the outside. Typically, metal models with a diameter of about 14–21 mm or more are used, while luxury coats often feature fabric-covered buttons matching the face or lining fabric. They are sewn with strong thread and reinforced from the inside, as heavy fabrics endure significant stress.
Where Secret Buttons for Coats Are Placed
Inner Placket of Double-Breasted Coats
In double-breasted coats, the visible buttons at the front only secure the outer layer. The inner layer is fastened to the left side with a secret button or an inner button and buttonhole. Secret buttons allow quicker fastening without adding bulk.
Concealed Placket
Minimalist coats often feature a concealed placket—visible buttons are replaced by a row of secret buttons under the overlap, keeping the coat’s front clean and uninterrupted.
Lapel and Collar
A secret button under the lapel allows the coat to be fastened up to the neck in cold weather, while a button under the collar’s corner holds it upright. Medium and large buttons are used here.
Pockets, Sleeves, and Vents
Flaps on pockets, cuffs, and back vents can also be secured with secret buttons when visible fastenings are not desired.
Secret Button Sizes for Coats
Coats are heavy and dense, so large buttons are used. Approximate sizes:
| Placement | Approximate Size | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Inner Placket | about 14–18 mm | Main load-bearing button |
| Concealed Placket | about 12–16 mm | Several buttons spaced evenly |
| Lapel, Collar | about 12–18 mm | Depends on fabric thickness |
| Very Heavy Coats, Capes | about 18–21 mm and above | Often fabric-covered |
| Pocket Flaps | about 10–14 mm | Less stress |
This table is a guideline. Always check on a sample of the actual fabric – see our article on secret button sizes for details.
Metal or Fabric-Covered Secret Buttons
Metal
Metal secret buttons in black, nickel colour (nickel free), or bronze are the standard choice. Black is almost invisible on dark coats, while nickel colour suits light coats. They are thin, durable, and withstand dry cleaning.
Fabric-Covered
For high-end coats, metal buttons are covered with fabric—either lining or face fabric—so when the coat is open, only fabric in tone is visible, not metal. Covering can be done in-house or ordered pre-covered. Choose thin, dense fabric to avoid excessive button height. This technique is also used for fabric-covered buttons on the coat’s face.
Plastic
Plastic secret buttons are usually too weak for main coat fastening but can be used for pocket flaps or light details.
How to Sew Secret Buttons on Coats
- Mark the male part’s position on the wrong side of the upper layer—it must be hidden under the placket.
- Sew the male part only through the upper layers, avoiding the face fabric.
- Close the coat and mark the female part’s position with chalk or by pressing the pin.
- Sew the female part onto the lower layer.
- Use strong thread—polyester or silk—and stitch each hole several times. For large buttons, sew with double thread.
A loop stitch (like buttonhole stitching) around each hole provides a stronger and neater seam.
Reinforcing the Fabric
Wool and cashmere stretch when unbuttoned, so the area must be reinforced to prevent distortion or tearing:
- fusible interfacing applied on the wrong side before sewing;
- a small fabric patch (reinforcement) on the wrong side;
- a small backing button on the wrong side for very heavy coats.
For lined coats, reinforcement is often hidden between the face and lining and is invisible.
How Many Buttons and Where
For concealed plackets, buttons are spaced evenly to prevent gaps when walking. Double-breasted coats usually need one or two secret buttons on the inner placket. Test on a sample by moving your arms, sitting, fastening, and unfastening repeatedly.
Secret Buttons for Different Coat Types
- Classic Wool Coat – large metal buttons in black or bronze on the inner placket; fabric-covered for premium models.
- Trench Coat – medium metal buttons under the lapel and on shoulder flaps to fasten up to the neck in rain.
- Cape or Cloak Coat – very large fabric-covered buttons that bear the full weight of the placket.
- Lightweight Spring Coat – medium buttons, often on a concealed placket.
- Children’s Coat – larger, easy-to-unfasten buttons, sewn securely to prevent detachment.
Matching with Other Buttons
Secret buttons are usually hidden, but the inside of the coat is part of the overall impression when open. If the face buttons are dark horn or corozo, choose secret buttons in black or bronze. If face buttons are metal, match the plating. For fabric-covered face buttons, fabric-covered secret buttons in the same fabric are a logical choice.
Care and Dry Cleaning
Most coats are dry cleaned. Metal secret buttons withstand dry cleaning but should be fastened before cleaning. Fabric-covered buttons are cleaned with the coat—the fabric must be suitable for the same cleaning method. For home washing (if allowed by the care label), brass buttons are preferred over steel, as steel can rust if the coating is damaged.
Common Mistakes
- Too few buttons on a heavy placket – causes unfastening while walking.
- Stitching that penetrates the face fabric – visible stitches.
- Lack of reinforcement on soft fabric – fabric stretches around the button.
- Shiny nickel colour under a dark lapel – visible when opened.
Secret Buttons for Coats by Polkom
Polkom is a manufacturer and wholesaler of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear, and bags with over 30 years of experience. In the secret buttons category, you will find large metal models for coats and jackets, and fabric-covered buttons made to order with your fabric. Send your inquiry with size, finish, and quantity via the contact page.
