Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
For shoe repair, cobblers use two main types of thread: bonded polyamide or polyester thread for machine repairs of the upper, and waxed polyester or linen thread for hand stitching and sole stitching. The thickness is usually greater than the original so that the thread fills the same holes and tightens the weakened leather. The colour is matched as closely as possible to the old seam.
Why repair places specific demands on thread
In production, thread is chosen for new leather and clean holes. In repair, the situation is different: the leather is worn, the holes are enlarged, and the old seam is often worn through only in certain places. So the cobbler looks for a thread that:
- is slightly thicker than the original, to fill the enlarged holes;
- is as strong as possible, because the leather is already weakened;
- is resistant to water and dirt, because repaired shoes are often worn every day;
- is available in many shades, to get close to the original colour.
Shoe repair thread by type of repair
| Type of repair | Thread | How it is done |
|---|---|---|
| Split seam on the upper | Bonded polyamide Tex 45–90 | Patcher machine, through the old holes |
| Torn lining, inside heel | Bonded polyamide Tex 30–45 | Machine or by hand |
| Detached and unstitched sole | Heavy waxed thread | By hand or with a special machine |
| Decorative seam, moccasins | Heavy waxed or bonded thread | By hand, through the original holes |
| Boots, zip, piping | Bonded polyamide Tex 70–90 | Patcher machine |
The patcher machine and its thread
The main machine in a shoe repair workshop is the patcher machine with a long arm and a rotating head. It allows sewing inside the shoe, around the toe and along the heel. These machines work with bonded thread – polyamide or polyester. It is important that:
- the needle is a leather needle suited to the thread thickness;
- the bobbin thread is the same as the top thread or one size finer;
- the tension is checked on a piece of old leather before the repair;
- the stitch length is set to the pitch of the old seam so that the same holes are used.
Sewing through the old holes is the main technique in repair. New holes next to the old ones weaken the leather, and it can tear along the line of the seam.
Hand repairs with waxed thread
Many repairs are done by hand – especially when the machine cannot reach the spot or when the shoe is hand-stitched. Waxed polyester or linen thread, two blunt needles and an awl are used. The cobbler sews a saddle stitch through the old holes, and where the holes are damaged, punches new ones slightly further in from the edge. When stitching a sole, the seam runs through the channel along the edge so that it is protected from abrasion.
A typical repair step by step
- Clean the area around the split seam and remove the remains of the old thread with an awl or scissors.
- Check that the leather around the holes is sound. If it is torn, reinforce it from the inside with adhesive and a thin strip of leather or textile.
- Choose the thread by thickness and colour and fit the corresponding needle.
- Start 2–3 holes before the split, in the intact seam, and finish 2–3 holes after it.
- Lock the ends and, with synthetic thread, heat-seal them.
This anchors the repair in the intact part of the seam, and it does not come undone again in the same place.
Matching the colour
The hardest part of a repair is the colour. The original thread has faded in the sun, darkened from shoe cream or got dirty. That is why cobblers keep a palette of shades in the main colours – several browns, several beiges, greys, black and white. Practical tips:
- compare with the thread in the least worn place, not the worn-through one;
- when in doubt, choose a slightly darker shade – it is less noticeable than a lighter one;
- for black shoes, use a deep black thread, not dark grey;
- for shoes with contrast stitching, it is sometimes better to re-stitch the whole seam than to patch part of it.
Repairing textile and sports shoes
On textile and mesh trainers and canvas shoes, seams usually split around the heel and in the flex zone. Here a finer bonded thread is used, about Tex 30–45, with a needle with a round or finely cutting point, because textile is not cut like leather. The seam must be soft so that it does not rub. Repair is harder with synthetic materials, which tear around the holes, so the spot is often reinforced from the inside with adhesive tape.
Beyond shoes: bags, belts and jackets
Shoe repair workshops often also repair leather goods – bag handles, belts, straps, leather jackets. The principles are the same: sewing through the old holes, a slightly thicker thread and a matched colour. On bag handles where the hardware is damaged as well as the seam, the repair is completed with new rivets. For repairing shoelaces, aglets are used to restore the finished look of the end.
What thread stock a workshop should keep
For a workshop that does repairs every day, it is practical to have:
- bonded thread Tex 45 and Tex 70 in 8–12 basic colours;
- Tex 90 or Tex 135 for decorative seams in black, brown and beige;
- waxed thread 0.55–0.8 mm for hand repairs in the basic colours;
- heavy waxed thread for soles in black, brown and natural;
- leather needles in the corresponding sizes.
Threads for shoe repair workshops from Polkom
Polkom manufactures and delivers threads to shoe repair and leather workshops in the threads for footwear and leather category – bonded and waxed threads in various weights and a wide range of colours. Send us a list of the types and colours you need via the contact page and we will send you a quote and samples.
