Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Thread for sewing shoes is chosen according to the position of the seam. For the upper, bonded polyamide or polyester thread of about Tex 45–90 is used; for decorative seams, a heavier thread up to Tex 135 and above; and for stitching the sole, a very heavy waxed thread or a special thread for shoemaking machines. In all cases the thread must withstand constant flexing, abrasion and moisture.
What loads the thread in a shoe has to bear
A shoe is one of the toughest items for a seam. With every step the upper flexes in the toe area, the heel is under constant pressure, and the sole is in contact with water, mud and abrasive surfaces. Shoe thread must have:
- high breaking strength and resistance to repeated flexing;
- abrasion resistance, especially in seams in the lower part;
- minimal moisture absorption and resistance to rot;
- stable colour in contact with water, shoe creams and sunlight;
- smoothness for high-speed sewing without overheating the needle.
Shoe sewing thread: the upper
The upper is sewn on post-bed or flatbed machines. Bonded polyamide thread, the standard in footwear production, is used, or bonded polyester for styles with more exposure to sunlight. Typical thicknesses are:
| Seam | Thread (guide) | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Lining, inner seams | Tex 30–45 | Thin and soft so that it does not rub |
| Joining the parts of the upper | Tex 45–70 | The main construction seam |
| Visible seams on sports and casual shoes | Tex 70–90 | A more expressive seam |
| Decorative seams, moccasins, boots | Tex 135 and above | Contrast and heavy seams |
At the heel and where parts are joined, two or three parallel rows of stitching are often made. The thread must come from one batch so that the rows are the same colour.
Thread for stitching the sole
The way the sole is attached also determines the thread. Most mass-market shoes today are cemented, and the sole is not stitched at all. In stitched constructions, however, the thread is decisive.
Goodyear welt
The upper is stitched to the welt – a strip of leather around the perimeter – and the welt is then stitched to the sole. Heavy waxed threads are used – traditionally linen, today often polyester or blends. The seam to the sole is visible from above on the welt and is a hallmark of classic men's shoes.
Blake
The sole, insole and upper are stitched together in one go from the inside, with a special chainstitch machine. The thread is waxed, heavy enough to last and at the same time flexible. The seam is visible on the insole and on the underside of the sole.
Stitchdown and other constructions
In this construction the upper is turned outwards and stitched directly to the sole. It is used for boots and sandals. The visible seam around the perimeter is usually in a heavy thread in the colour of the sole or in contrast.
Decorative seams
Decorative stitching gives a shoe character – moccasins with visible stitching on the toe, boots with ornaments, trainers with contrast stitching along the sole. Here heavy bonded threads are used, sometimes also waxed ones in handmade work. When choosing, pay attention to:
- the match between thread thickness and needle – Tex 135 needs needles of about Nm 140–160;
- a longer stitch with heavier thread, so the leather is not perforated;
- choosing the colour with the shoe cream your customers will use in mind – light thread on dark leather will get stained over time.
Thread for textile and synthetic shoes
For trainers and sports shoes made of textile, mesh and synthetic leather, the same bonded threads are used, but often in finer thicknesses. Synthetic materials do not recover after piercing like leather, so the needle must have a round or finely cutting point, and the stitch should not be too dense.
Colours of shoe threads
The main colours in footwear production are black, several shades of brown, beige, grey, navy and white. In fashion collections, brands also use contrasting colours that repeat the colour of the sole, the laces or the details. When choosing a shade, compare the thread with the leather in daylight and bear in mind that nubuck and suede look darker than smooth leather. For a large run, order the full quantity from one batch so that there is no colour difference between pairs.
Footwear accessories
Besides threads, shoe production also requires hardware. Ankle boots and boots use metal zips with sturdy teeth, and laces use aglets, which protect the end from fraying. Footwear labelling has its own requirements, with pictograms for the materials of the upper, lining and sole.
Common mistakes when choosing shoe thread
- Using uncoated thread for the upper – it frays in the needle at high speed.
- Light polyamide thread for summer shoes that stand in the sun – the colour changes.
- A different thread batch within one order – the rows of stitching are in different shades.
- Too dense a stitch with heavy thread in soft leather – the leather tears along the seam when flexed.
Shoe threads wholesale from Polkom
Polkom manufactures and delivers threads for footwear production – bonded polyamide and polyester threads and heavy decorative threads in classic and fashion colours. See the threads for footwear and leather category and send us information about the style, the leather and the machines via the contact page. We will suggest suitable thicknesses and samples and, if needed, match a colour to a sample.
