Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Two different products are called silk embroidery thread: threads made of natural silk (a protein fibre from the cocoon of the silkworm) and viscose threads, known as “artificial silk” or rayon. Natural silk is used mainly for hand embroidery, restoration and haute couture, whereas in machine embroidery a “silk” thread almost always means rayon or polyester with a silky sheen. Before ordering, clarify which of the two you need.
Silk embroidery thread: natural silk and “artificial silk”
The confusion comes from the names. Viscose was invented as a more affordable alternative to silk and was long sold as “artificial silk” (rayon in English, Kunstseide in German). It has a similar sheen and softness, but it is a completely different material – regenerated cellulose from wood. Natural silk is an animal protein and has unique properties of its own.
| Property | Natural silk | Viscose (“artificial silk”, rayon) | Polyester with a silky sheen |
|---|---|---|---|
| Origin | Animal protein | Regenerated cellulose | Synthetic polymer |
| Sheen | Deep, pearly | High, soft | High |
| Strength | Very high for its thickness | Medium | High |
| Washing | Delicate, by hand | Delicate | Withstands high temperatures |
| Main use | Hand embroidery, restoration, haute couture | Machine embroidery, fashion garments | Machine embroidery, uniforms, towels |
Silk threads for hand embroidery
Natural silk is preferred by hand embroiderers for its sheen and fineness. A single strand of silk is thin but strong, so it allows very fine colour transitions – for example in satin-stitch embroidery of flowers, portraits or miniatures.
Types of silk thread for hand embroidery
- Filament (flat, untwisted silk) – a continuous fibre with maximum sheen. It is used in Japanese and Chinese embroidery and requires care because it easily catches on rough fingers.
- Twisted silk – strands twisted into a thread, easier to work with and more durable. Suitable for outlines and details.
- Stranded silk – like stranded cotton, made of several strands that can be separated.
- Spun silk – made of shorter fibres, with a softer and more matte look.
Tips for working with natural silk
- Work with shorter lengths – up to about 40 cm.
- Keep your hands smooth and clean; rough skin catches the fibres.
- Use a needle with a smooth eye, suited to the thickness.
- Protect the threads from sunlight – silk is affected by UV light.
- Wash the embroidery by hand in lukewarm water with a silk detergent, without wringing.
Silk threads for machine embroidery
Natural silk is rarely used on industrial embroidery machines. The reasons are the price, the sensitivity of the fibre at high speed and the delicate care the finished item requires. When a customer asks for “silk embroidery”, in most cases they mean a visual effect – a soft, deep sheen – rather than the raw material.
This effect is achieved with rayon threads, which were created precisely to imitate silk, or with high-gloss polyester threads when the item will be washed often. If the customer insists on natural silk because of the composition (for example for a luxury collection where all materials are natural), this must be agreed separately and a sample made on the specific machine.
Silk embroidery thread and garment labelling
Under Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011, the label of a textile product states the composition of the main material. Decorative elements and embroidery that are not part of the base and make up a small part of the product may be excluded from the percentage composition. Nevertheless, it is important not to call a rayon thread “silk” in marketing materials – the fibre name must be accurate. If you use rayon threads, call them viscose or rayon, not “silk”.
The care instructions must also reflect the embroidery. If it is made of natural silk or rayon, the gentle wash must be indicated with the ISO 3758 symbols on the care and composition label.
When natural silk is worth it
- Haute couture and handmade collections where the natural composition is part of the product story.
- Restoration of historical textiles and folk costumes.
- Ceremonial and bridal items with hand embroidery.
- Art embroidery – panels, pictures, miniatures.
For series-produced clothing, uniforms, promotional items and anything that goes in a washing machine, the practical choice is rayon or polyester embroidery thread.
Storing silk threads
Natural silk is sensitive to light, moths and an overly dry environment. Store spools and skeins in closed boxes, away from windows and heaters. Do not keep them in plastic bags for long – moisture must be able to escape. Rayon threads also fade in direct light, so the same rules apply to them. Threads stored incorrectly become brittle and break during sewing.
How to choose
- Clarify whether you need natural silk as a material or only a silky effect.
- Determine the technique – hand or machine.
- Consider how the item will be washed.
- Choose the colour from a physical colour card.
- Make a sample on the actual fabric.
You will find rayon and polyester threads with a silky sheen in the embroidery threads category. For natural fabrics see also the cotton threads, and for the brand of the item – the woven labels, which can also have a satin sheen.
Embroidery threads from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags with over 30 years of experience. We advise ateliers, brands and embroidery workshops on choosing between rayon, polyester and speciality threads, match colours to a sample and send samples. We deliver throughout the EU, and minimum quantities depend on the article. If you are looking for a specific silk thread, send an inquiry via Contact and we will check the options.
