Toggle buttons are elongated buttons, usually made of wood or horn, that fasten into a loop of cord or leather instead of a buttonhole. They are typical for duffle coats, but are also used on cardigans, jackets and bags. They are easy to fasten even with gloves on, which makes them practical for outerwear.
What toggle buttons are
A toggle is a cylindrical or slightly barrel-shaped button, often with tapered ends. It has one or two holes in the middle, or a groove, through which it is attached to the garment with cord, a leather strap or thread. It is fastened by pushing the toggle crosswise through a loop on the other side of the garment. The system is simple, strong and needs no buttonhole.
The origin of toggle buttons
The classic duffle coat is associated with the heavy wool cloth from the Belgian town of Duffel and with the British sailors who wore such coats in the mid-20th century. Wood or horn toggles and rope loops made it possible to fasten the coat with thick gloves in cold, wet conditions. After the war the coat became popular in civilian fashion, and to this day toggles are its hallmark.
Toggle button sizes
| Length | Use |
|---|---|
| 25–35 mm | children's coats, cardigans, bags |
| 35–45 mm | women's coats, knitted cardigans |
| 45–60 mm | men's duffle coats |
| over 60 mm | oversized styles, decorative items |
The sizes are approximate. Length and diameter are given, because a toggle is not round. The thickness is usually about a quarter to a third of the length.
Why wood
- Lightness – wooden toggles do not weigh down the fabric and loops.
- Classic look – light and medium woods are traditional for duffle coats.
- Durability – dense woods such as beech and olive withstand everyday fastening.
- Logo option – laser engraving on a toggle is a discreet brand detail.
Besides wooden toggles, horn toggles are also used, which are heavier and have a more luxurious sheen – browse the horn buttons if you are looking for this effect.
Loops and attachment
A toggle button always works in a pair with a loop. There are several ways to attach it:
- Cord or rope – the classic option. Cotton, jute or polyester cord is passed through the toggle and sewn to the garment.
- Leather or faux leather strap – a more refined option; leather tabs are sewn to the garment and hold both the toggle and the loop.
- Sewing on directly – a toggle with two holes is sewn on like an ordinary button, with a cord loop opposite.
The loop length must allow the toggle to pass through crosswise with slight effort. A loop that is too long leads to the toggle coming undone by itself, and one that is too short makes fastening difficult.
How to sew on a toggle button
- Determine the position of the toggle and the loop by fastening the garment with a sample.
- Pass the cord through the holes or the groove of the toggle and form a small shank.
- Sew the ends of the cord to the garment, hiding them under a leather tab or in a seam.
- Sew the loop opposite, leaving a length roughly equal to the diameter of the toggle plus a little slack.
- Reinforce from the inside with tape or a piece of fabric, because toggles take a lot of tension.
Where else toggles are used
- knitted coats and chunky cardigans;
- children's coats and jackets that children fasten themselves;
- bags, backpacks and cases with a flap;
- home textiles – cushion covers and throws with loops;
- ponchos and capes.
Finish and colour
Classic toggles come in a natural or lacquered light to medium brown tone. Modern collections also use dyed toggles – black, navy, olive, as well as tone on tone with the fabric. Lacquer is recommended for outerwear worn in rain and snow.
Common mistakes with toggles
- a loop that is too long and lets the toggle slip out;
- cord that shrinks in the wash and distorts the fastening;
- a thin toggle that breaks under pressure in the middle;
- no reinforcement on the inside, so the cord tears the fabric;
- a mismatch in tone between the toggles, the cord and the leather tabs.
Care and maintenance
Coats with toggles are usually dry-cleaned or hand-washed. If the garment goes into a washing machine, fasten the toggles in their loops, turn it inside out and choose a delicate cycle. The cords must also withstand washing without shrinking, so choose a material compatible with the coat fabric.
Number of toggles and placement
The classic duffle coat has three or four toggles on the front, spaced evenly, sometimes with a small one on the collar or hood. Women's and children's styles have a similar number, but the toggles are shorter. The loops are sewn so that, when fastened, the front overlaps evenly without creases. On double-breasted styles, toggles can be in two rows, but this is less common.
Toggles for series production
When producing coats with toggles, it is convenient for the buttons, cords and leather tabs to come from one source so that they match in colour and tone. Specify the length and thickness of the toggles, the number of holes or the type of groove and the material of the loop. Make a sample of the complete fastening and test it for tension and washing.
Toggle buttons from Polkom
Polkom manufactures wooden buttons, including toggles in various sizes and finishes, as well as cords and other accessories for the complete fastening. We also make styles with a logo. Send an inquiry with the sizes and a description of the coat.














