The correct colour for a YKK conceal zip is chosen by its number from the YKK colour chart, comparing the actual tape with the fabric under daylight. If there is no exact match, select a slightly darker tone – it blends into the seam, while a lighter one shows as a stripe. For printed and multicoloured fabrics, match the zip to the dominant or darkest background colour.
Why the Correct Colour of a YKK Conceal Zip Matters So Much
With a regular zip, the tape lies beside the closing line and can be a contrasting colour. With a conceal zip, the tape edges lie directly next to the seam on the garment’s face side. When the garment is worn and the seam stretches in movement, the tape may show by a millimetre or two. If the colour differs from the fabric, a thin but noticeable line appears on the back of a dress. That is why colour matching is more important for conceal zips than for any other type.
How to Work with the YKK Colour Chart
YKK uses its own colour numbering system for zip tapes. The YKK colour chart contains actual tape samples, not printed colours, making it the most reliable tool for selection.
- Use a physical colour chart. Colour from photos, screens, or Pantone numbers is only a guide.
- Compare under daylight. Artificial workshop lighting distorts tones, especially greys, beiges, and dark blues.
- Place the sample on the fabric, not beside it. View from a normal distance, as the seam will be seen.
- Check both front and back sides. For thin fabrics, the tape may show through.
- Record the number in the tech pack to ensure consistency in every order.
Rules for Choosing the Tone
| Situation | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| No exact match | Choose a slightly darker tone, not lighter |
| Black and very dark fabrics | Black or the darkest close tone |
| White and ivory | Choose carefully – white has many shades |
| Printed fabrics | Match the background colour or the darkest dominant tone |
| Checks and stripes | The darkest dominant stripe |
| Sheer fabrics | Match the lining or skin tone |
| Satin and shiny fabrics | Compare at an angle, as shine changes the tone |
Special Cases
White, Ecru and Ivory
For wedding and evening dresses, choosing between white, optical white, ecru, and ivory is delicate. Optical white zips in ivory dresses look bluish and “cold.” Always compare with the actual fabric, not the colour name.
Shiny Fabrics
Satin and silk appear lighter or darker depending on the light angle. Examine the sample from several angles and pick a tone that works well in all lighting.
Multicoloured and Printed Fabrics
Exact matches are impossible here. The goal is for the zip not to attract attention. Choose the background colour or the darkest large area of the pattern.
Sheer and Semi-Sheer Fabrics
With chiffon and tulle, the tape shows through the fabric. If the garment has lining, match the zip to it. If not, consider a skin tone or a lighter shade of the fabric colour.
Thread Colour and Slider Colour
Besides the tape colour, thread colour is important. It should match the fabric because even a slight deviation shows in the coil. Also, pay attention to the slider: with conceal zips, the small pull tab remains visible at the top of the seam. Usually, it is painted to match the tape, but some models have metal or transparent options. For evening dresses in dark fabrics, a painted slider matching the fabric tone is most discreet, while decorative designs may use a metal slider.
Colour for Dark and Saturated Fabrics
Dark blue, bottle green, burgundy, and black are colours where tone differences are most visible because the tape reflects light differently than wool or viscose. For these, check the sample under both daylight and artificial light and choose a tone that blends in both.
How to Choose Colour Without a Chart
If you don’t have a YKK colour chart, send us a fabric piece at least a few centimetres in size. We will physically compare the fabric with the chart and suggest the closest standard colour or two options to choose from. Descriptions like “dark blue” or “powder” are insufficient because everyone interprets tones differently.
Colour Stability for Repeat Orders
- Always order by number, not description;
- Keep a sample from the first batch as a reference;
- For new fabric batches, check the match again, even if it’s “the same colour” – fabrics from different batches vary;
- Compare the new delivery with the reference before sewing in.
Colour in the Tech Pack
In each model’s tech pack, record not only the zip colour number but also which fabric and fabric colour it corresponds to. When a dress is made in several colours, a “fabric colour – zip number – thread number” table prevents warehouse and cutting errors. If the brand has main colours repeated season after season, maintain a consistent list of matches to avoid choosing the colour anew each time.
Common Mistakes
- Choosing colour from a phone photo;
- Lighter zip on dark fabric;
- Optical white instead of ivory;
- Choosing under fluorescent workshop lighting.
If YKK colour matching is not mandatory, Polkom’s standard conceal zips are also available in a wide palette with large stock.
Contact Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear, and bags, supplying original YKK Conceal zips in YKK colour chart shades – YKK is a third-party brand we do not manufacture. Browse YKK conceal zips and send colour numbers or fabric samples via the contact page.














