Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
The most suitable fabric for covered buttons is of moderate thickness, densely woven and slightly elastic – satin, crêpe, linen, cotton, fine wool and silk. Very thin and sheer materials need a backing so that the shell does not show through, and very thick ones a larger button size. Patterned fabrics are cut with the motif centred. Here is how to assess your fabric.
What makes a fabric suitable for covered buttons
- Thickness – the fabric must fold around the edge of the shell and gather under the back without preventing it from closing.
- Weave density – a loose weave stretches unevenly and shows the base.
- Elasticity – slight stretch helps the material lie smoothly over the dome.
- Opacity – the metal or white shell must not show through.
- Edge stability – fabrics that fray easily need a larger allowance and fusing.
Fabric for covered buttons – overview by material
| Material | Suitable? | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Satin, duchess satin | yes, excellent | smooth sheen; slippery, sometimes fused |
| Crêpe, georgette | yes | matt look; georgette is more sheer |
| Cotton, poplin, batiste | yes | batiste often needs a backing |
| Linen | yes | natural texture; the edge frays easily |
| Fine wool, gabardine | yes | standard for suits and jackets |
| Velvet | yes, from medium size up | mind the direction of the pile |
| Tweed, melton, bouclé | only for large sizes | thick; a smaller circle is cut |
| Chiffon, organza, tulle | only with a backing | sheer |
| Lace | only with a backing | over satin or crêpe in the same shade |
| Knit fabric | yes, with stabilising | very stretchy; fused |
| Sequins, beads | difficult | the hard elements interfere with the press |
Thin and sheer fabrics
Chiffon, organza, georgette and thin silk let light through and show the metal shell as a dark spot. The solutions are:
- fusing with a thin interfacing in white or in the shade of the fabric;
- covering in two layers of the same material;
- a backing of satin or crêpe in the same colour under the sheer fabric;
- a light-coloured shell or a plastic base.
The backing slightly changes the shade, so approve the colour on a finished button, not on the fabric.
Thick and bulky fabrics
Fabrics such as tweed, melton, bouclé and thick velvet take up a lot of space under the back and form folds around a small shell. Therefore:
- choose a larger size – usually from 28L–32L upwards;
- prefer a flat profile to a domed one;
- cut the circle slightly smaller than standard;
- if the button has to be small, use a thinner material in the same colour from the same collection.
Velvet and pile fabrics
With velvet, suede-like velour and plush, the pile has a direction. If the circles are cut in different directions, the buttons look like different shades – some lighter, others darker. That is why the circles are cut in one and the same direction, marked on the fabric. Send the material with the direction marked if it matters for the product.
Patterned fabrics, stripes and checks
With a small print, every button looks the same. With a large print, stripes or checks, a decision is needed:
- centring the motif – the same element in the centre of every button;
- stripe orientation – vertical, horizontal or diagonal relative to the garment;
- a plain button in fabric of the main colour of the print, when the motif is too large.
Centring needs more fabric and more manual work, but the result looks professional.
Lace
Lace is always covered over a backing, because it is openwork. Choose a fine lace with a small motif that will still be visible on a 9–11 mm button. Larger lace is suitable for buttons larger than 20 mm or for decorative elements. You will find more about the types in lace.
Technical and functional fabrics
Water-repellent, membrane and coated outerwear fabrics are often slippery with a stiff back, and some crack when bent sharply. They can be used for covered buttons, but the button is best larger and with a flat profile. Neoprene and very thick technical materials are rarely suitable – there, instead of a covered button, a button in another material in the matching colour is chosen. Metallic and foil-laminated fabrics also need a test, because the coating may peel at the edge.
Fabrics with high abrasion resistance
If the button will be rubbed often – for example on a cuff or on furniture – choose a dense fabric with high abrasion resistance. For furniture upholstery fabrics, this resistance is usually given in cycles using the Martindale method. The higher the figure, the more slowly the material will wear at the edge of the button.
How to test the fabric
- Cut one circle and stretch it with your fingers over the shell – does the base show, do folds form?
- Check whether the edge frays when cut.
- Make a test button in the actual size.
- If the product is washed, wash the test button together with a piece of the fabric.
- Approve the colour and appearance in daylight.
How much fabric to provide
The amount depends on the size and number of buttons, cutting waste and the need to centre the pattern. With plain fabrics the waste is smaller; with patterned and pile fabrics it is larger. Allow extra for test buttons and rejects. The manufacturer can calculate the exact amount from the size and quantity.
See the models and types of bases in the fabric-covered buttons category, and the full range in buttons.
Advice from the manufacturer
Polkom makes fabric-covered buttons to order and wholesale using the customer’s own material, and can assess the suitability of any fabric with a test button. We work with brands, ateliers and furniture manufacturers, make samples quickly and deliver across the EU. Send a piece of the fabric via the contact page and you will receive a recommendation on size, profile and backing.
