Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Bone button sizes are measured in lines (L), where 1L = 0.635 mm. The most common sizes are 16L–20L (about 10–13 mm) for shirts and cuffs, 24L (about 15 mm) for jacket and vest sleeves, 30L–32L (about 19–20 mm) for jacket fronts, and 32L–40L (about 20–25 mm) for coats. The choice depends on the garment, fabric, and design proportions.
How to measure a button
The button size is its diameter measured at the widest point. Thickness and shank height are not included in the size but are important for making the buttonhole. Use a caliper for measuring – a ruler can cause significant errors with small sizes. To convert millimeters to lines, divide by 0.635: a 20 mm button is approximately 31.5L, i.e., between 30L and 32L.
Chart: Bone button sizes
| Lines (L) | Diameter, mm | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 14L | 8.9 | button-down collar, baby clothes |
| 16L | 10.2 | shirt collar and cuffs |
| 18L | 11.4 | shirt front, blouses |
| 20L | 12.7 | thicker shirts, work shirts, trousers |
| 22L | 14.0 | dresses, children's knits, suit vests |
| 24L | 15.2 | jacket sleeves, vests, pocket flaps |
| 26L | 16.5 | suit vests, cardigans |
| 28L | 17.8 | women’s jackets, knitted vests |
| 30L | 19.0 | men’s jacket front |
| 32L | 20.3 | jackets, light coats, trench coats |
| 36L | 22.9 | coats, jackets |
| 40L | 25.4 | men’s coats, voluminous styles |
| 44L–48L | 27.9–30.5 | oversized coats, decorative accents |
Values are rounded to tenths of a millimeter. For natural bone, actual diameters may vary slightly due to manual finishing.
Bone button sizes by garment type
Shirts
Shirts use two sizes: smaller for collar and cuffs, slightly larger for the front. The classic combination is 16L + 18L. Work shirts, denim shirts, and thicker cotton shirts use 18L + 20L.
Jackets and suits
The standard for men’s jacket fronts is 30L–32L, with 24L for sleeves. Suit vests usually use 24L–26L. Women’s jackets have a wider range, from 24L to 36L depending on design.
Coats
Women’s coats typically use 28L–36L, men’s coats 32L–40L. Sleeve buttons are 24L–28L, while inner functional buttons are 16L–20L.
Knitwear
Knitted buttonholes are elastic and stretch, so buttons are larger than those on woven garments for the same purpose: 24L–32L for adults and 18L–22L for children.
Trousers, overalls, and workwear
Inner waistband buttons and suspender buttons are usually 20L–24L. Retro-style overalls and workwear use larger, sturdier bone buttons – 24L–28L – for easy handling and durability.
Size and garment proportions
Charts provide a standard, but the final choice is visual. The button should be proportional to the lapel width, placket, and silhouette. Smaller buttons look more elegant on narrow lapels and fitted cuts; standard buttons suit wide lapels and voluminous coats. A good practice is to place two samples of adjacent sizes on the finished prototype and view them from 2–3 meters away. A two-line difference, which seems minor in the chart, is clearly visible on the garment. Also consider the spacing between buttons – larger buttons usually require slightly wider intervals.
Thickness and profile
Two buttons with the same diameter may require different buttonholes if one is flat and the other convex. Bone buttons come in various profiles:
- Flat – thin, for shirts and lightweight garments;
- With edge – medium thickness, classic for jackets;
- Convex – thicker, for coats;
- With shank – total height includes the shank under the fabric.
Buttonhole size relative to button size
A practical rule is: buttonhole length = button diameter + button thickness + small allowance. The allowance is about 1–2 mm for thin fabrics and more for thick ones. Bone is not elastic, so a too-tight buttonhole will tear. Test the buttonhole on the actual fabric with the real button sample before programming the machine.
Size sets
For one garment order, two or three sizes are usually combined. Example set for a double-breasted coat:
- 6 buttons 36L for the front;
- 1 inner button 24L;
- 8 buttons 24L for sleeves (4 per sleeve);
- 18L backing buttons for functional buttons;
- spare buttons of each size.
Each size is a separate order item, but it is best if all come from the same batch to ensure uniform tone of the natural bone.
Common mistakes
- mixing lines and millimeters in specifications;
- measuring with a ruler instead of a caliper;
- ignoring thickness when making the buttonhole;
- ordering sizes from different batches.
Available sizes are in the bone buttons category, and for other natural materials in the buttons section.
Size samples from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear, and bags from Sofia, with over 10,000 items. If you hesitate between two sizes, we will send samples to try on your actual fabric and buttonhole. Send an inquiry with the model and sizes via the contact form.
