Grosgrain and Petersham Ribbon – What’s the Difference?

Polkom
Grosgrain and Petersham Ribbon – What’s the Difference?

Ribbed ribbon is the common term for ribbons with transverse ribs. In practice, it refers to two similar products: grosgrain ribbon with tightly woven, finished edges, and petersham ribbon, whose edges allow the ribbon to bend when steamed. They look alike but behave differently in hats, waistbands, and trims.

What does ribbed ribbon mean?

“Rib” describes a fabric with raised ribs made by thicker yarns in one direction. When the ribs run crosswise and the fabric is a narrow ribbon, it’s called ribbed ribbon. In stores and catalogs, the term is used loosely and can mean either grosgrain or petersham, and sometimes narrow ribbons with lengthwise ribbing. So when ordering, it’s best to specify the exact construction.

Grosgrain ribbon

Grosgrain ribbon has tightly woven, closed edges (a selvage along the length). This makes it very stable: the ribbon won’t fray lengthwise, holds a straight line, and is suitable for:

  • straight edge trims;
  • handles and straps;
  • ribbons that need to keep their shape;
  • loops, logo ribbons, and packaging.

The drawback is that it resists bending – when you try to curve it, the inner edge wrinkles. Typical widths and colours are shown in the grosgrain ribbon category.

Petersham ribbon

Petersham ribbon has freer edges – often with small “pearls” or open loops, without the dense woven selvage of grosgrain. This allows one edge to shrink and the other to stretch when steamed and ironed. The ribbon then takes a curved shape and fits snugly along curved lines. That’s why petersham is the traditional choice for:

  • inner and outer hat bands;
  • waistbands on skirts without a separate belt;
  • curved edges on corsets and evening dresses.

Petersham ribbons made from viscose or cotton work best because these fibres respond well to steam. Polyester versions exist but hold shapes less reliably.

Comparison: Grosgrain vs Petersham ribbon

FeatureGrosgrainPetersham
Edgesdense woven selvagefreer, often with pearl-like loops
Steam shapinglimitedexcellent
Straight lineexcellentgood
Curved edgesdifficultexcellent
Typical materialpolyesterviscose, cotton, blends
Typical usetrims, bags, ribbons, logoshats, waistbands, corsets

How to identify your ribbon

  1. Check the edge. A smooth, closed edge without loops usually means grosgrain. Edges with small loops or scallops suggest petersham.
  2. Steam test. Place a piece on a board, steam it, and try bending one edge while ironing. Petersham bends smoothly, grosgrain wrinkles.
  3. Check the fibre content. Polyester ribbons are almost always grosgrain; viscose ribbons are more likely petersham.
  4. Consider the width. Petersham is mainly used in widths 15–40 mm, while grosgrain ranges from very narrow to very wide.

Which ribbon for which product?

Garments with straight edges

Jackets, vests, coats, blankets, and trims – grosgrain. It protects edges from stretching and gives a clean, graphic finish.

Hats

Both types are used for decorative outer bands on fedoras or boater hats; petersham is easier when the ribbon must fit the crown’s tapered shape exactly. The inner hatband is usually petersham.

Waistbands on skirts or trousers

For curved waistlines (like most low-rise skirts), choose petersham and pre-shape it with steam. For straight waistbands on trousers, dense grosgrain can be used as an inner band.

Branding and packaging

Grosgrain’s stable surface is better for logo printing, and the ribbon doesn’t distort on the roll.

Common mistakes when choosing

  • Ordering just “ribbed ribbon” without specifying edges or material.
  • Using polyester grosgrain for curved waistbands – causing wrinkles and gaps from the fabric.
  • Skipping the steam shrink test for viscose and cotton ribbons.
  • Ignoring stiffness: the same width can be soft like a ribbon or stiff like a belt.

For comparison with smooth ribbons, see satin ribbon and the general ribbons section.

How to steam-shape petersham ribbon

Shape before sewing. Place the ribbon on an ironing board, apply steam, and gently pull one edge into a curve while ironing the shorter (inner) edge. The inner edge shrinks, the outer edge stretches, and the ribbon forms a circular segment. Compare the curve to the waistband or crown line on the pattern and repeat until it matches. Let the ribbon cool in place before moving it, or the shape will be lost.

Grosgrain cannot be shaped this way to the same extent. If it must follow a slight curve, it can be eased with a helper stitch along the inner edge or cut into shorter segments. In mass production, shaping takes time, so decide which ribbed ribbon to use at the pattern stage.

Note: In some catalogs, “ribbed ribbon” also includes ribbons with very fine ribs that feel like taffeta. These are thinner, softer, and mainly used for packaging. If the ribbon will be sewn into garments, request a sample and check density, not just the name.

Ribbed ribbons from Polkom

Polkom is a manufacturer of haberdashery and accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear, and bags based in Sofia. We help you choose the right ribbed ribbon for your product, select colours by sample, and send samples. Describe your application and send an inquiry via the Contacts page.

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FAQ

Frequently asked questions

Can grosgrain ribbon be steamed to bend?
Only to a limited degree. Grosgrain’s dense woven edges prevent one edge from shrinking relative to the other, causing wrinkles when bent. Cotton or viscose grosgrain responds slightly better to steam than polyester. For clearly curved products, petersham ribbon pre-shaped with steam is a safer choice.
How do I order ribbed ribbon to get the exact type?
Specify not just “ribbed ribbon” but also the construction (grosgrain or petersham), material, width in millimetres, Pantone or sample colour, and desired stiffness. Describe the product – hat, waistband, trim, or packaging. Sending a physical sample or close-up photo of your current ribbon’s edge is most reliable.
Is petersham ribbon suitable for washing?
It depends on the material. Viscose and cotton petersham are mainly used in hats and carefully cleaned products because they can shrink and lose shape. For frequently washed items, polyester or grosgrain is more suitable. Always do a wash test with the main fabric.
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