Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
How do you sew on hook and loop (Velcro)? The tape is machine-sewn with a straight or narrow zigzag stitch around the entire perimeter, 1.5–2 mm from the edge. Use a size 90–100 needle, strong polyester thread and a stitch length of about 3 mm. The stiff hook side is usually sewn to the outer, movable part, and the soft loop side to the body of the product. Under load, reinforce with a box cross.
What you need
- hook and loop tape – both parts in the same width;
- a sewing machine, ideally with a Teflon or roller foot;
- a size 90 needle for standard tapes and 100–110 for wide, stiff tapes;
- polyester sewing thread in the colour of the tape or the fabric;
- fabric clips or double-sided basting tape;
- sharp scissors and a lighter or hot knife for sealing the ends of synthetic tape.
Which part goes where
Hook and loop has two parts: the stiff hook side and the soft loop side. The rule in apparel is that the soft side goes where the tape stays exposed when unfastened and may touch the skin or other garments. The stiff side goes on the movable flap or strap that lies on top when fastened.
- Jacket cuff – loop side on the sleeve, hook side on the strap.
- Children’s shoe – loop side on the upper, hook side on the strap.
- Pocket flap – loop side on the pocket, hook side under the flap.
- Patch panel – loop side on the garment, hook side on the back of the patch.
How to sew hook and loop: step by step
1. Prepare the tape
Cut the tape a few millimetres shorter than the fastening area. Round the corners with scissors – the sharp corners of the hook side scratch and lift first. With synthetic tape, lightly singe the cut edge so it does not fray.
2. Position
Pins pass through hook and loop with difficulty and leave marks, so use clips or thin double-sided basting tape. Close the two parts on each other to check they line up exactly, and mark the position with chalk.
3. Set up the machine
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Needle | size 90 for thin tape, 100–110 for wide and stiff |
| Thread | Polyester, matching colour |
| Stitch length | about 3–3.5 mm |
| Stitch type | straight or narrow zigzag |
| Distance from edge | 1.5–2 mm |
4. Sew around the perimeter
Start in the middle of one of the long sides, not at a corner. Sew along the edge; at the corners leave the needle down, lift the foot and pivot. Finish with a few stitches overlapping the start, instead of backstitching – the seam looks cleaner.
5. Reinforce under load
If the tape will take force – on shoe straps, belts, straps and bags – add a cross from corner to corner inside the rectangle, or crosswise rows every few centimetres on long tapes. This spreads the load over the whole fabric.
Straight or zigzag stitch
A straight stitch is the cleanest and the standard in apparel. A narrow zigzag covers the edge better and prevents fraying, so it is preferred for tapes with a cut, unsealed edge and on knitted bases that stretch. On stretch bases, zigzag is a must, otherwise the seam breaks.
Sewing hook and loop to different materials
- Jersey and stretch fabrics – back with fusible interfacing or place paper underneath so the fabric does not stretch.
- Leather and faux leather – leather needle, longer stitch and a Teflon foot so it does not stick.
- Dense technical fabrics – size 110 needle, slower speed and strong thread.
- Thin fabrics – reinforcement underneath is essential, otherwise the tape puckers the fabric.
Sewing onto a finished garment
When repairing or adding hook and loop to a finished product, the hardest part is not catching layers you should not. Unpick the hem or facing if possible and sew only through the top layer, then close it again. If that is impossible, choose thread in the colour of the right side, because the stitching will show on the outside. For pockets and cuffs, use the machine’s free arm to sew through only one side of the tube.
Small pieces and dots
Dots and very small pieces are hard to sew around the perimeter. Sew slowly with a shorter stitch and turn the piece every few stitches. An alternative is a cross or square in the middle, but it holds less well and the edges lift.
Why you should not sew through adhesive
Self-adhesive hook and loop is not designed for sewing. The adhesive sticks to the needle, the thread breaks and the machine skips stitches. If the tape will be washed or take load, choose a sew-on version. More on the differences in the article on sew-on versus self-adhesive hook and loop.
Common mistakes
- Sewing too far in – the edge of the tape lifts and snags.
- Hook side on the body – scratches the skin and snags other garments.
- A thin needle – breaks or skips stitches.
- Sharp corners – lift first and scratch.
- No reinforcement – on straps the seam breaks.
- The two parts in different widths – the grip is weaker.
Series production
In factories, hook and loop is often pre-cut into exact pieces with rounded corners to speed up sewing. For large runs it is useful to order the tape already cut or as a set of both parts. Tapes in various widths and colours are in the hook and loop category, and other trims in haberdashery.
Hook and loop from Polkom
Polkom is a Sofia-based manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags with over 30 years of experience. We supply sew-on hook and loop tape in widths from 5 to 100 mm, the two parts separately or as a set, in standard colours and matched to a sample. Send the width, colour and quantity via the inquiry form, and we will prepare a quote and samples.
