Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
How to sew on a wire hook and eye: the hook is sewn to the inside of the upper (overlapping) edge of the garment and the eye directly opposite it on the other edge. Each part is secured with dense stitches through the metal loops at the base, and the hook is also stitched under the bend itself so that it does not tilt. The thread is chosen in the colour of the fabric so that the stitching stays unnoticeable.
What you need
- a set of wire hooks and eyes in a suitable size;
- a hand-sewing needle with a fine eye that passes through the loops;
- polyester sewing thread in the colour of the fabric or the hook;
- pins or chalk for marking;
- a thimble – useful with dense materials;
- a piece of interfacing for very thin fabrics.
How to sew on hooks and eyes: step by step
1. Find the position
Close the garment as it will be worn – the edges should meet exactly or with the desired overlap. Mark with a pin or chalk the position of the hook on the inside of the upper edge. The hook is placed about 2–3 mm in from the edge so that its bend does not show from the outside.
2. Sew on the hook
- Thread the needle with single or double thread and tie a small knot.
- Insert the needle from the inside, into the lower layer of fabric, without going through to the right side.
- Place the hook with the bend towards the edge and the opening facing down, towards the fabric.
- Make 5–6 dense stitches through each of the two loops at the base.
- Pass the needle under the fabric to the neck of the hook and make 2–3 stitches across it – this stops the hook from lifting.
- Secure with small stitches and hide the thread end between the layers.
3. Mark the position of the eye
Fasten the hook in your mind: close the garment and mark exactly where the eye should be so that no folds form. With a straight eye (bar), the position is on the lower (underlapping) edge. With a round eye, it is placed on the edge itself, protruding slightly, so that the two edges meet in one line.
4. Sew on the eye
Sew on the eye in the same way – with dense stitches through both loops. If the eye is round and protrudes beyond the edge, make extra stitches at the sides so that it does not bend. Fasten and check that the edges lie smoothly and that the fastening does not come undone when moving.
Stitches: plain stitch or buttonhole stitch
Most sewers use simple dense stitches through the loops. In tailoring ateliers and haute couture, the loops are often covered with buttonhole stitch – each stitch forms a small knot along the edge of the loop. This stitch is slower, but it looks neater, holds more firmly and stops the hook from turning. If the garment is made of a thin material or an expensive fabric, buttonhole stitch is worth the effort.
Sewing on thin and stretch fabrics
On silk, chiffon, georgette and knits, the metal hook can tear the fabric under tension. Therefore:
- reinforce the area with a piece of interfacing or an extra layer of fabric;
- choose the finest hook sizes;
- sew only through the inner layers, without going through to the right side;
- on stretch materials, place the hook where the fabric is reinforced by a seam or piping.
Hook and eye above an invisible zip
The most common use of wire hooks and eyes is at the top of the invisible zip on dresses and skirts. The hook is sewn on one side of the zip, above the slider, and the eye on the other. It takes the strain at the most stressed point and stops the zip from opening. Sew them so that the edges meet exactly when the zip is closed.
Thread eye instead of a metal one
On fine evening dresses, the metal eye is sometimes replaced with a thread eye. It is worked directly on the edge: make 3–4 loose stitches the length of the eye, leaving a little slack, and cover them closely with buttonhole stitch along the whole length. The result is a thin, flexible loop in the colour of the fabric that is almost invisible. This eye is more delicate than a metal one, so do not use it in places under high strain.
How many sets to use
| Position | Number of sets |
|---|---|
| Above an invisible zip on a dress or skirt | One |
| Neckline or back of a dress without a zip | Several, at equal distances |
| Waistband of a skirt in a light material | One or two |
| Corset or bodysuit | A whole row or hook-and-eye tape |
With several sets in a row, mark all positions in advance and sew on all the hooks first, then the eyes – this keeps the row straight.
Common mistakes
- The hook shows from the outside – it was placed too close to the edge.
- A fold when fastened – the eye was positioned inaccurately.
- The hook tilts – the stitches across the neck are missing.
- Stitches on the right side – the needle went through all layers.
- A hook too large for a fine fabric – the fastening is heavy and shows.
- Weak thread – cotton thread wears through on the metal faster than polyester.
Hook and eye sets in various sizes and colours can be found in the wire hooks and eyes category.
Wire hooks and eyes from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags, based in Sofia, with over 30 years of experience and wholesale supply. We stock wire hooks and eyes in silver, gold and black, as well as threads and invisible zips for the same garments. Send us a description of the garment or a fabric sample via the inquiry form and we will recommend a suitable size.
