Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Woven labels are made on jacquard looms, which interlace coloured polyester yarns and so form the logo directly in the fabric. The process goes through design preparation, loom programming, weaving a wide strip, cutting, folding and quality control. Understanding these stages helps you order a label that looks exactly as you intended.
How woven labels are made – the overall process
- Receiving and analysing the logo.
- Technical preparation of the design for weaving.
- Choice of yarns and colours.
- Weaving a sample.
- Approval and series weaving.
- Cutting and finishing the edges.
- Folding, applying heat-seal adhesive if required.
- Inspection, counting and packing.
1. Analysing the logo
Everything starts with the file. The technician checks the line thickness, the size of the smallest letters, the number of colours and whether there are elements that will not work in weaving – gradients, shadows, very thin outlines. This is where the suitable weave is decided: damask for most logos, high definition for very fine detail, taffeta for simple shapes.
2. Technical preparation of the design
The logo is not "uploaded" straight to the machine. It is redrawn in special software as a grid of points, where each point shows which yarn comes to the face at a given place. This is similar to pixelation: the finer the yarns, the denser the grid and the smoother the curves. At this stage the direction of the text relative to the strip, the margins around the logo and the fold positions are also set.
Weaving direction
The text can run along the length of the strip or across it. The direction affects the sharpness of the letters – horizontal and vertical lines do not come out the same, because the warp and weft have different densities. That is why the technician sometimes suggests turning the logo or slightly thickening certain lines.
3. Yarns and colours
The warp of the loom is usually one colour – often black or white – while the colours of the logo and background come from the weft yarns. Colours are matched to Pantone or to a supplied sample, looking for the closest available yarn. Special yarns can also be added – metallic gold and silver, fluorescent or denser yarns for a raised effect.
4. Weaving a sample
The sample is a small quantity of labels woven with the actual yarns and settings. It shows the true colours, density and legibility of the text, which cannot be judged on screen. We recommend sewing the sample onto a garment and putting it through at least one wash – that way you see how it behaves in real conditions.
5. Series weaving
After approval, the loom weaves a wide strip on which many labels are arranged side by side. High-speed jacquard looms work continuously, and the operator watches for broken yarns and colour deviations. Because the design is programmed, every label in the batch is identical to the approved sample.
6. Cutting and finishing the edges
The wide strip is slit into individual tapes and then into individual labels. Several methods are used:
- Ultrasonic – a soft, sealed edge; a good choice for neck labels.
- Hot knife – a stable edge that is slightly stiffer.
- Laser – for shaped labels and a very precise outline.
- Woven edge – the side edges are woven and only the ends are cut along the length.
7. Folding and finishing
Special machines cut and fold the labels in one go: centre fold, end fold, mitre fold or combined. If the label is to be ironed on, heat-seal adhesive is applied to the back. Labels can also stay on a roll – convenient for automated sewing in larger factories.
8. Inspection and packing
Finished labels are checked for weaving errors, colour differences and the accuracy of cutting and folding. They are counted and packed by style and size. If the order also includes care and composition labels or size labels, it is good to mark them by set to avoid mistakes on the factory floor.
What you can control as a client
| Stage | Your decision | What it affects |
|---|---|---|
| Design | vector logo, font size | legibility and detail |
| Weave | damask, satin, taffeta, HD | softness, sheen, price |
| Colours | Pantone or sample | match with the brand |
| Cutting | ultrasonic, knife, laser, woven edge | comfort and look of the edge |
| Folding | straight, centre, end, mitre | method of sewing on |
Common production problems and how to avoid them
- Merged letters – these occur when the text is too small for the chosen weave. Solution: a larger font or high definition.
- Colour difference from the brand book – yarns have a limited palette. Solution: a physical sample and an approved sample label.
- Distorted label after cutting – with very long, narrow labels the strip can "pull". Solution: the right proportion of dimensions and a suitable cutting method.
- Stiff edge – with a hot knife. Solution: ultrasonic cutting or a woven edge for neck labels.
How long it takes and what it depends on
Lead times depend on the complexity of the design, whether standard or special yarns are used, the quantity and the production workload. A sample is usually the quickest way to check the result before committing a budget to a production run. You will receive a specific lead time and quote after an inquiry with your parameters.
Woven labels from the manufacturer Polkom
Polkom manufactures custom woven labels for brands, garment factories and ateliers across Europe. We help with the technical preparation of the logo, make a fast sample and deliver within the EU. Send your file via the contact page and we will suggest the most suitable weave and finishing.
