Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Jacket sleeve buttons usually number four on classic business styles and three on sports jackets, in size 24L (about 15 mm). They can be arranged side by side or slightly overlapping – the so-called "kissing" buttons. On ready-to-wear jackets they are decorative, while on made-to-measure jackets the buttonholes are often working and the cuff can be unbuttoned.
Why a jacket has sleeve buttons
Today sleeve buttons are mainly a decorative detail, but their origin is functional. In the past the cuff was unbuttoned so the sleeve could be rolled up for work without taking off the jacket. A popular legend links the buttons to stopping soldiers from wiping their faces on their sleeves, but historians consider it more of an anecdote. Whatever their origin, sleeve buttons have become an essential element of the classic jacket and show the level of craftsmanship.
Jacket sleeve buttons: number by style
| Number | Style | Comment |
|---|---|---|
| 1–2 | Modern and casual jackets | Minimalist look, rare on classic styles |
| 3 | Sports jackets, blazers, tweed | Slightly more informal look |
| 4 | Business suits, classic styles | The most common standard |
| 5 | Fashion and designer styles | A pronounced tailoring accent |
Double-breasted jackets and coats follow the same logic, but on coats there are sometimes only two or three larger sleeve buttons.
What are overlapping ("kissing") buttons
In an overlapping arrangement the buttons are sewn so close together that their edges overlap slightly like roof tiles. The effect requires precise sewing and is therefore associated with higher-end craftsmanship, especially Italian tailoring. Usually the lowest button is on top and each following one tucks slightly beneath it. For it to look good, the button must have a thin rim and moderate thickness – buttons that are too thick do not overlap attractively.
Working and decorative buttonholes
Decorative
On most ready-to-wear jackets the buttonholes are only stitched, not cut open, and the buttons are sewn on flat. This allows the sleeve to be shortened or lengthened during alterations without leaving marks.
Working
Working buttonholes are cut open and the buttons can be undone. They are a sign of a made-to-measure jacket, because the sleeve must be fitted precisely before the buttonholes are made – after that the length can practically no longer be changed. Some owners leave the last button undone to show that the buttonholes are real.
Size and placement
- Size: the standard is 24L, about 15 mm. Coats use 24L–28L.
- Design: the same as the front buttons of the jacket, only smaller.
- Distance from the edge: the lowest button is usually a few centimetres from the end of the sleeve, leaving room for the hem.
- Buttonhole angle: on some styles the buttonholes are slightly slanted – a detail noticed on close inspection.
Materials and colour
Sleeve buttons are made of the same material and colour as the front buttons. Most often these are horn, corozo, imitation horn (faux horn) or metal on blazers. Natural materials look especially good in an overlapping arrangement, because the slight differences in pattern emphasise the handcrafted character. Browse horn buttons and corozo buttons if you are looking for a natural look.
Sleeve buttons on coats, blazers and trench coats
On coats the sleeve often has fewer but larger buttons – two or three, sometimes sewn onto a decorative tab or cuff strap. Blazers usually have three or four metal sleeve buttons from the same set as the front, while trench coats often replace the buttons with an adjustable strap and a single button or buckle. The principle remains the same: the sleeve button is smaller than the front one, of the same design, and sewn symmetrically on both sleeves.
Replacing sleeve buttons
Changing the buttons is a quick way to refresh a jacket or raise its perceived value. With decorative buttonholes, the old buttons are carefully cut off and the new ones sewn in the same positions. With working buttonholes, the new button must have the same diameter so that it passes exactly through the existing buttonhole. So when ordering for a repair or upgrade, measure the old button with callipers and give the size in lignes.
Sewing on in production
- Prepare a set of buttons from one batch so there is no difference in shade.
- Mark the positions with a template so they are identical on both sleeves.
- Sew on flat, without a thread shank – sleeve buttons are rarely fastened.
- For an overlapping arrangement, start with the button closest to the edge and watch the angle.
- Use thread matching the button or the fabric.
Sleeve buttons with logo
Since sleeve buttons are small, the logo on them must be simplified – a monogram, initials or fine lettering around the rim. The set looks best when the engraving repeats that of the front buttons, scaled to the size.
Common mistakes
- a different design on the sleeve and on the front;
- buttons too thick for an overlapping arrangement;
- asymmetrical positions on the two sleeves;
- working buttonholes on a jacket whose sleeve length has yet to be fitted;
- a sleeve button larger than the front one.
Sleeve buttons from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags, based in Sofia. In the men's buttons section you will find jacket buttons in sets of two sizes – for the front and the sleeve – and to order we make buttons colour-matched to a sample and with a logo. We also offer button attaching as a service. Write to us via our contact page.
