Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Lace by the metre is calculated from the length of the edge it will finish, multiplied by the number of garments and the gathering ratio, plus a reserve for joins and rejects. For a straight edge without gathering the ratio is 1, for a light frill about 1.5, and for a full frill 2 to 2.5. In series production add a 3–5% reserve and order the full quantity from one batch so the shade is consistent.
How lace is sold by the metre and by the roll
Garment lace is offered in two main formats. By the metre – the exact length is cut, convenient for ateliers, samples and small series. By the roll – a standard put-up of a set length, which depends on the article and manufacturer. Rolls are more economical for series production and guarantee that the whole quantity is from the same batch. Wide laces (full-width, like fabric) are sold per linear metre at a given width.
Formula for calculating lace by the metre
The basic formula is:
Quantity = edge length × gathering ratio × number of garments + joins + reserve
- Edge length – measure along the seam line on the finished garment, not on the pattern with allowances. For circular edges (skirt hem, sleeve, neckline) measure the full circumference.
- Gathering ratio – depends on whether the lace is sewn on flat or gathered into a frill.
- Number of garments – for each size separately, because the edge length changes with size.
- Joins – add 2–3 cm for each seam where the lace is joined into a ring, and more if the motif has to match.
- Reserve – 3–5% for a series, 10% or more for one-off pieces and samples.
Gathering ratios
| Type of finish | Ratio | Example for 1 m of edge |
|---|---|---|
| Straight edge, no gathering | 1.0 | 1 m of lace |
| Light gathering | 1.3–1.5 | 1.3–1.5 m |
| Frill | 2.0 | 2 m |
| Full frill, pleating | 2.5–3.0 | 2.5–3 m |
| 90° corners (tablecloths) | 1.0 + 2× the width per corner | depends on the width |
Example: lace for a series of nightdresses
Say you are sewing 200 nightdresses with lace along the neckline and the hem. The neckline length for a medium size is 60 cm and the hem 140 cm. The lace is sewn on flat, without gathering.
- Neckline: 0.60 m × 200 = 120 m
- Hem: 1.40 m × 200 = 280 m
- Joins: 2 seams × 0.03 m × 200 = 12 m
- Total: 412 m + 5% reserve ≈ 433 m
If the sizes differ, calculate each size separately according to your size chart and add them up. If you want a frill with a ratio of 2 along the hem, the hem length doubles to 560 m.
Lace by the metre for whole panels
When whole pieces – fronts, sleeves, the top layer of a dress – are cut from lace, the calculation is the same as for fabric. Lay the pattern on the lace width and measure how much linear length one set takes. With laces that have a pronounced motif and decorative edges, the pieces often have to be arranged so that the scallop falls along the hem or neckline, which increases consumption. Also add the consumption for matching the motif at the side seams.
Special cases
Lace around corners
On tablecloths, napkins and pillowcases the lace turns at the corners. If it is gathered at the corner, add extra length – usually twice the width of the lace for each corner. If the corner is formed with a diagonal seam (mitre), consumption is lower, but the motif must match.
Lace with a motif to match
Laces with a large, repeating motif look best when the motif meets exactly at the seam. To achieve this, measure the repeat – the length after which the motif repeats – and add one repeat for each join.
Two layers of lace
If the lace is sewn on in two rows (for example a double frill on a hem), calculate each row separately with its own ratio.
When to order by the roll
- When the quantity for the series is close to or above the length of one roll.
- When colour matching between garments is critical – one roll is one batch.
- When the lace is a core article that will be repeated in future collections.
- When you want a lower unit price – rolls are usually more economical than cutting by the metre.
Common calculation mistakes
- Measuring on the pattern with allowances instead of the finished edge – leads to surplus or shortage.
- The same quantity for all sizes.
- Omitting the ratio for frills – the lace runs out halfway through the series.
- Ordering in parts – the second delivery is from a different batch and the shade differs.
- No reserve for samples and rejects.
The same logic applies to the other linear trims in the garment – satin ribbons for bows and bindings and elastics for waists and sleeves. Calculate them together so you can order everything in one delivery.
Lace by the metre and by the roll from Polkom
Polkom is a manufacturer and wholesaler of haberdashery and garment accessories from Sofia with over 30 years of experience. In our lace category we offer various types by the metre and by the roll – stretch, cotton, guipure, trims and wide laces. We can help you calculate quantities and send samples before the series. Send an inquiry with the lace type, width and number of garments, and we will prepare a quote.
