Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Men’s shirt buttons usually have four holes and measure 16L–18L (about 10–11.5 mm) for the front and cuffs, while the smaller 14L (about 9 mm) is used for the points of a button-down collar and for the sleeve placket. A classic shirt has between 10 and 15 buttons, including spares. The most widely used materials are polyester, urea, mother-of-pearl and corozo.
Men’s shirt buttons: how many and where
The number depends on the style, but a classic men’s shirt has the following positions:
| Position | Number | Typical size |
|---|---|---|
| Front placket | 6–7 | 16L–18L |
| Collar stand | 1 | 16L–18L |
| Cuffs | 1–2 per cuff | 16L–18L |
| Sleeve placket | 1 per sleeve | 14L |
| Button-down collar | 2, sometimes 1 at the back as well | 14L |
| Flap pocket | 1 per pocket | 16L |
| Spare buttons | 1–2 of each size | — |
A cuff with two buttons side by side allows the width to be adjusted. A double (French) cuff for cufflinks has no buttons, only buttonholes on both sides.
Shirt button sizes
The size is given in lignes, where 1L = 0.635 mm. The most common are:
- 14L (about 8.9 mm) – button-down collar, sleeve placket, small details;
- 16L (about 10.2 mm) – the standard for the front and cuffs of classic shirts;
- 18L (about 11.4 mm) – casual shirts, Oxford, flannel and denim shirts;
- 20L (about 12.7 mm) – overshirts and thicker fabrics.
On formal shirts the buttons are smaller and thinner, while on casual shirts they are slightly larger and chunkier. Thickness matters too: a thin button (about 2 mm) is elegant, while a thicker one (3 mm and more) looks more casual and is stronger.
Materials for men’s shirt buttons
Polyester
The most widespread material for casual shirts. It comes in every colour and effect, including imitation mother-of-pearl, withstands regular washing and offers good value for money.
Urea
A hard thermosetting material that withstands the high temperatures of washing and ironing very well. It is suitable for uniform shirts and workwear, as well as for shirts that are frequently washed at high temperatures. See the urea buttons.
Mother-of-pearl
The classic choice for high-end shirts. Natural mother-of-pearl has a deep pearly lustre and a cool touch. Browse the mother-of-pearl buttons.
Corozo
A natural plant-based material with a soft look. Particularly suitable for linen and cotton shirts in natural tones.
Which material for which type of shirt
- White formal shirt: mother-of-pearl or high-quality polyester with a pearl effect, 16L, thin.
- Coloured casual shirt: polyester matching the fabric, 16L–18L.
- Oxford and button-down collar: chunkier 18L buttons and 14L for the collar, often white or in the fabric colour.
- Linen shirt: corozo, wood or matte polyester in natural tones.
- Denim and work shirt: thicker 18L–20L buttons, sometimes metal snap buttons.
- Uniform shirt: urea for its resistance to high temperatures.
Shirts “without buttons” and the concealed placket
When customers look for men’s shirts without buttons, they usually mean styles with a concealed placket. The buttons are there, but they are sewn onto an inner strip and fastened under an extra fabric flap, so the front looks clean from the outside. This detail is popular on tuxedo and minimalist shirts. For a concealed placket, thin flat 14L–16L buttons are chosen, usually white or in the fabric colour, because they are not visible but must pass easily through the buttonholes under the flap. Buttons with a smoother rim that do not catch the fabric when fastening are also practical.
Buttonholes and sewing on
The buttonhole should be slightly longer than the diameter of the button – a practical rule is diameter plus thickness. On the front placket the buttonholes are vertical, while on the collar stand and cuffs they are horizontal, because the load there is sideways. In production the buttons are sewn on with an automatic machine, most often with parallel or cross stitching. On casual shirts a contrasting thread is sometimes used as a design detail.
Button colour
On white and light blue shirts the classic choice is white or pearl buttons. On coloured and patterned shirts the button usually matches the main colour of the fabric or is slightly darker. Contrasting buttons – for example dark buttons on a white shirt – are a bold detail for casual styles but are not suitable for formal shirts worn under a suit.
What to include in the specification
- size and number for each position;
- material, colour and finish;
- number of holes and profile – flat, rimmed, concave;
- number of spare buttons;
- logo or engraving, if any;
- colour of the sewing thread.
Common mistakes
- the same size for the front and a button-down collar – the collar button looks clumsy;
- a button that is too thick for thin poplin;
- buttons that cannot withstand the ironing temperature on shirts for everyday wear;
- spare buttons left out;
- colour chosen without a fabric sample;
- buttons from different batches on the same shirt, with a visibly different shade.
Shirt buttons from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags from Sofia with over 30 years of experience, also selling wholesale. In the men’s buttons section you will find styles for shirts in standard sizes, and to order we make buttons in colours matched to a sample and with a logo. Send an inquiry via the contact page with the style, size and quantity.
