Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
A metal shank button is a button without holes on the face, with a loop (shank) underneath through which the thread or the fixing element passes. The shank lifts the button above the fabric, leaving room for the thickness of the buttonhole edge, and keeps the face of the button clear for relief, a logo or enamel. That is why this type is the standard on jackets, blazers, coats and uniforms.
How a metal shank button is built
The button has two main zones: the decorative upper part and the underside to which the shank is attached. On stamped brass buttons the shank is usually a separate wire loop, soldered or crimped into the base. On cast zinc alloy buttons the shank is cast together with the body and is more solid. There are also combined designs in which the base is a separate element joined to the cap by rolling the edge.
Types of shank
Wire shank
A thin metal loop in a U or omega shape. The shank is small and unobtrusive, suitable for light and medium fabrics. It is easy to sew on, but on very heavy buttons it can bend if the thread is pulled too tight.
Cast shank
Part of the button body, cast in one piece with it. It is more stable and withstands greater loads, so it is used on coats and solid styles. Its opening must be large enough for doubled thread.
Tunnel shank
A wide shank with a horizontal opening, resembling a tunnel. It distributes the thread better and stops the button from tilting. It is found on larger decorative buttons.
Shank for a split pin
A longer shank designed to pass through a hole or an eyelet in the garment and be fixed on the inside with a split pin or a ring. This is the basis of removable buttons.
How to sew on a metal shank button
- Take strong polyester thread or button thread in the colour of the fabric. For coats, use doubled thread.
- Determine the position relative to the buttonhole and mark it with chalk.
- Position the shank parallel to the buttonhole, i.e. perpendicular to the edge of the garment. This way the button stands upright when fastened.
- Make 6–8 stitches through the shank and the fabric. Leave the thread slightly loose.
- If the shank is short, form an additional thread shank by winding the thread several times under the loop.
- Secure on the inside with a few small stitches and a knot.
- For heavy buttons, sew a small backing button on the inside at the same time.
The most common mistake is placing the shank parallel to the edge. Then the button turns sideways when fastened and the buttonhole gets distorted.
Removable buttons with a split pin
On uniforms, liveries, hotel and ceremonial garments, metal buttons are often removable. The garment has a hole, a buttonhole or an eyelet through which the shank is passed, and on the inside it is fixed with:
- a split pin – a flat spring clip that is inserted into the shank;
- a ring – a metal ring through which the shanks of several buttons pass;
- a pin or clip – in some modern systems.
The advantages are clear: the buttons are not damaged during washing and dry cleaning, they can be transferred between several sets of garments and are easy to replace. The drawback is that they require precisely made openings and a longer shank.
Sizes of metal shank buttons
| Size | mm (approx.) | Use |
|---|---|---|
| 18L–20L | 11–13 mm | shirts, blouses, waistcoats, collars |
| 24L | 15 mm | jacket sleeves, epaulettes, pockets |
| 28L–32L | 18–20 mm | fronts of jackets and blazers |
| 36L–44L | 23–28 mm | coats, pea coats, greatcoats |
1L = 0.635 mm. It is also important to know the height of the button including the shank – it affects how thick a buttonhole edge can fit underneath and whether the button will go through the button-sewing machine.
Machine sewing
In sewing factories, shank buttons are attached on specialised machines that hold the button in a clamp and make a series of stitches through the shank. Some machines also form a wound thread shank. Before the run, check that the machine clamp fits the shape and height of the button – solid cast styles and buttons with a high domed face sometimes need a different clamp or finishing by hand. Try a few buttons and check their strength with a pull test before running the whole batch.
Metal shank button or hole button
A button with holes is cheaper to sew on and sits close to the fabric, but the holes divide the face and limit the design. A shank button leaves the entire face for a logo, crest or relief and is easier to fasten on thick fabrics. For shirts and light garments, hole buttons are often preferred, while for outerwear and anything carrying insignia, shank buttons are used. You will find a variety of men's styles in men's buttons.
A logo on a metal shank button
Because the face is uninterrupted, a raised logo, monogram, crest or lettering around the rim can be placed here. Laser engraving on a finished button or making a new die are both possible – see engraved buttons. When a removable button is used, the logo stays correctly oriented because the shank fixes its position.
You will find standard and made-to-order styles in the metal buttons category.
Ordering metal shank buttons
Polkom manufactures and delivers metal buttons with various types of shank, including removable ones with a split pin for uniforms. We make buttons with logos and crests, produce samples quickly and deliver across the EU, and if needed we also take care of attaching them. Send an inquiry with the size, the type of shank and the quantity via the contact page.
