A Pantone colour on a label is a standardised reference (for example Pantone 19-4052 TCX or 2945 C) with which you describe the exact shade of the print and the tape, instead of "navy" or "burgundy". The manufacturer mixes the ink to this reference and selects the closest tape. As the textile, the tape and the light all affect perception, final approval is always made with a physical sample, not on screen.
Why a Pantone colour is needed on a label
Words for colours are imprecise. One brand's "red" is tomato, another's cherry. In addition, a brand usually has colours in a logo book or brand book and wants them repeated on everything – from the label to the packaging and the website. The Pantone system provides a common language between the designer, the label manufacturer and the clothing manufacturer.
What Pantone references exist
- Pantone for print (C/U) – with codes such as 186 C. Used for paper and packaging, and often in brand books.
- Pantone for textiles (TCX/TPX/TPG) – with codes such as 19-1664 TCX. Developed for textiles and better suited to tape and fabric.
If you only have the print code, send it – the manufacturer will find a textile equivalent. If you have both, even better.
Print colour and tape colour
On a printed label there are two colours that need to be matched: the ink and the base. They influence each other.
- White print on a dark tape – if the layer is not dense enough, the base shows through and the white looks greyish.
- Colour print on a coloured tape – the ink partly blends visually with the base; blue on yellow looks greenish.
- Dark print on a light tape – the most accurate colour rendering and the best legibility.
- Satin versus taffeta and cotton – the sheen of satin makes the colour lighter and livelier depending on the angle, while cotton makes it more matt and soft.
If the tape colour is an important part of the brand, take a look at the range of satin ribbons, which are also used for decorative elements in products.
Printing method and colour accuracy
| Method | Colour options |
|---|---|
| Thermal transfer | Limited choice – the colour depends on the available ribbons; standard colours are the safest |
| Flexo printing | The ink is mixed to a recipe; good repeatability on long runs |
| Screen printing | The ink is mixed to a recipe; the best opacity on a dark tape |
If the exact Pantone colour is mandatory and the quantities are small, discuss the method in advance – with thermal transfer the choice of colours is narrower than with flexo and screen printing.
How to agree the colour – step by step
- Give the code for each colour in the design and for the tape.
- Send a physical reference if you have one – a piece of fabric, a previous label or packaging.
- Discuss the method that allows this colour at your quantities.
- Compare the sample in daylight next to the Pantone fan or the garment fabric.
- Approve in writing and keep the sample as a master.
Under what light to check
Colour changes under different light sources. Under the warm lamp in the office blue looks darker, and under the fluorescent lighting in the warehouse cooler. Check in daylight by a window, without direct sun, and under the shop lighting if it is different.
How accurate it can be
Textile is not paper. Small deviations in shade between the sample and the run, between tape batches or between label and fabric are normal, especially with different materials. What matters is that the difference is not noticeable to the naked eye under normal conditions. With woven labels the colour is determined by yarns, not ink, so accuracy there depends on the thread colours available – one more reason why print is preferred for very specific shades.
A label in the fabric colour or in the brand colour
Before choosing a colour, decide what role the label plays. There are two approaches, and both are valid:
- The brand colour everywhere. The same label in all styles – for example a black tape with white print. Easy to order and recognisable, but on light garments a dark label can show through a thin fabric.
- A label in tone with the fabric. The tape is chosen close to the colour of the product, while the print stays in the brand colour. It looks cleaner, but means more variants and a more complex order.
A compromise is a neutral tape – white, cream or grey – that works well in most styles and does not show through.
Colour and fastness
Some colours are more sensitive to light and washing than others. Saturated reds, pinks and fluorescent tones usually fade faster than black, navy and grey. If the label will be visible on the outside, for example on the hem or a pocket, take this into account. Test the sample in light and with washing to see how the colour holds up over time.
Common colour mistakes
- A colour described in words or with a phone photo.
- Different Pantone codes for the same colour in different brand files.
- Approving a sample under artificial light.
- Expecting a small thermal transfer order to match any Pantone code.
- No master sample for subsequent orders.
Printed labels in your brand colours
Polkom is a Sofia-based manufacturer and wholesaler of garment accessories with over 30 years of experience. We make printed labels with colours matched to Pantone, make samples and deliver throughout the EU. Send the colour codes and the design via Contact to request a quote.












