Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Fabric-covered button sizes are indicated in ligne (L), where 1L = 0.635 mm. The most common sizes range from 14L (about 9 mm) for back button rows on dresses up to 40L (about 25 mm) and larger for coats and upholstery. For each size, a fabric circle is cut, approximately twice the button diameter, with the exact size depending on the button profile and fabric thickness.
What is ligne (L) and why is it used
Ligne is a traditional unit of measurement in button manufacturing. It originates from the old French unit ligne and is widely adopted in the industry, which is why catalogs and technical specifications list sizes in L. The formula is simple: diameter in mm = size in L × 0.635. For example, 24L = 15.24 mm, 36L = 22.86 mm. To convert back, divide mm by 0.635.
For fabric-covered buttons, the size refers to the finished button diameter, not the fabric circle. Thick fabrics can slightly increase the actual diameter, so for very dense materials, it is advisable to make a sample button and measure it with calipers.
Fabric-covered button size chart
| Ligne | mm | Approximate Fabric Circle | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 14L | 8.9 | about 19 mm | rows on the back of bridal gowns |
| 16L | 10.2 | about 21 mm | dresses, cuffs, children's wear |
| 18L | 11.4 | about 23 mm | blouses, dresses, cuffs |
| 20L | 12.7 | about 25 mm | blouses, dresses, shirts |
| 24L | 15.2 | about 29 mm | dresses, jackets, jacket sleeves |
| 28L | 17.8 | about 33 mm | jackets, vests |
| 30L | 19.1 | about 35 mm | women's jackets, coat-style dresses |
| 32L | 20.3 | about 37 mm | jackets, suits |
| 36L | 22.9 | about 40 mm | coats, upholstery |
| 40L | 25.4 | about 44 mm | coats, upholstery |
| 45L–60L | 28.6–38.1 | about 48–62 mm | decorative buttons, bed tufting |
The fabric circle size is approximate for a semi-domed profile and medium-thickness fabric. For a high dome profile, the circle is larger; for a flat profile, smaller; and for thick fabrics, it is also reduced.
Fabric-covered button sizes by garment type
Bridal and evening gowns
Small domed buttons sized 14L–18L are used for long rows on backs and sleeves. They are lightweight, do not weigh down delicate fabrics, and look elegant in dense rows with shanks.
Blouses and dresses
Fronts of blouses or dresses typically use 18L–24L buttons. For denser fabrics like crepe and jacquard, larger sizes may be chosen.
Jackets and suits
Women’s jacket fronts use 24L–30L, men’s around 32L. Sleeves usually take about 24L. Fabric-covered buttons matching the fabric tone create a clean, monochrome look.
Coats
Coats require 32L–40L, with designer models sometimes larger. Thick wool fabrics are easier to cover with a larger cap.
Upholstery
For tufting on beds, sofas and armchairs, sizes 30L–45L are most common. Smaller buttons create a fine, dense rhythm; larger ones give a bold, classic look.
How fabric thickness affects size
The denser the fabric, the harder it is to wrap around a small cap. Practical guidelines:
- Thin fabrics (silk, chiffon, batiste) – suitable for all sizes, often with interfacing;
- Medium fabrics (satin, crepe, linen, cotton) – no restrictions on small sizes;
- Dense fabrics (wool, velvet, jacquard) – better from 20L upwards;
- Very dense fabrics and leather (melton, tweed, leather) – from 28L upwards and with a flat profile.
How much fabric is needed for fabric-covered buttons
The amount is calculated based on the fabric circle size and the number of buttons. As a guide, from a 10 × 10 cm fabric square, about nine circles for 24L buttons or four circles for 36L buttons can be cut with tight spacing. In practice, allowance must be made for edge waste, samples, and rejects, and for patterned fabrics, extra fabric for motif centering. Therefore, always send more fabric than the pure calculation suggests.
Button profile and visual size
Two buttons with the same ligne size can look different in size. A domed button is higher and casts a shadow, so it appears more substantial than a flat button of the same diameter. A flat button shows more of the fabric and pattern. When choosing between two adjacent sizes, e.g. 24L and 28L, compare them in the actual profile on the fabric – often a domed button of the smaller size looks large enough. The profile also affects the shank: domed buttons require a longer shank or wider washer.
How to determine button size by shank length
If the garment is already sewn and the shank exists, measure its length. Usually, the shank is 2–3 mm longer than the button diameter, and more so for thicker and domed buttons. When designing a new garment, first choose the button, then size the shank or washer according to the actual button.
Common size selection mistakes
- Confusing ligne and millimetres – 24L is not 24 mm but about 15 mm;
- Button too small for dense fabric – causing fabric puckering around the button;
- Choosing domed buttons for shanks sized for flat buttons;
- Calculating fabric without allowance for sample buttons.
All available sizes and profiles are in the fabric-covered buttons category. For a size guide of men's buttons by garment type, see men's buttons, and for the full range, visit buttons.
Custom sizes by Polkom
Polkom manufactures fabric-covered buttons wholesale in standard sizes, with domed or flat profiles and various back types for apparel and upholstery. We help you choose the right size for your fabric and calculate the needed material. We produce samples quickly and deliver across the EU. Send your inquiry via the contact page.
