Sizes of faux horn buttons are indicated in lines (L), where 1L = 0.635 mm, so 24L is about 15.2 mm, 32L about 20.3 mm, and 40L about 25.4 mm. Shirts typically use 16L–20L, waistcoats 20L–24L, jacket sleeves 20L–24L, jacket fronts 28L–32L, and coats 32L–44L and larger.
What is a line (L) and why is it used
The line is a traditional unit of measurement in button manufacturing, inherited from old European standards. Although millimetres are now standard, button manufacturers and buyers still use lines because it is established in catalogues and orders. The size in lines always refers to the diameter of the button, not its thickness.
Faux horn button sizes: chart
| Lines (L) | Diameter (mm) | Typical application |
|---|---|---|
| 14L | 8.9 | fine blouses, baby clothes |
| 16L | 10.2 | shirt – collar and cuff |
| 18L | 11.4 | shirt – front |
| 20L | 12.7 | shirt, waistcoat, jacket sleeve |
| 22L | 14.0 | waistcoat, knitted waistcoat |
| 24L | 15.2 | jacket sleeve, waistcoat, trousers |
| 26L | 16.5 | jacket, shirt-jacket |
| 28L | 17.8 | women’s jacket, cardigan |
| 30L | 19.1 | jacket |
| 32L | 20.3 | men’s jacket front, coat |
| 36L | 22.9 | coat, trench coat |
| 40L | 25.4 | coat, greatcoat |
| 44L | 27.9 | large coat, duffle coat |
| 54L | 34.3 | oversize, decorative button |
The values are rounded to one decimal place in millimetres. Applications are approximate – fashion and cut may shift sizes by a few lines up or down.
Sizes by garment type
Shirts
Shirts use 16L–20L. Thin faux horn buttons are popular for linen, Oxford, and flannel shirts, giving a warm, natural look. Collar buttons are usually one or two lines smaller than front buttons.
Waistcoats and knits
Suit waistcoats use 20L–24L, while knitted waistcoats and cardigans use 22L–30L depending on knit thickness. Larger buttons suit chunky knits proportionally.
Jackets
The classic combination is 32L on the front and 24L on sleeves for men’s jackets, and about 28L–30L on the front for women’s jackets. Double-breasted jackets use the same front button size as single-breasted but have more buttons.
Coats
Coats start at 32L and go up to 44L, with oversize models reaching 54L. Sleeve tabs and belts use 24L–28L.
Trousers
Belt buttons and suspenders’ buttons are usually 24L–26L. Inner suspender buttons are often simpler, but faux horn buttons are used on classic trousers where buttons are visible.
How to measure a button
- Use calipers or a ruler with millimetre markings.
- Measure the diameter across the centre, from edge to edge.
- Divide the result by 0.635 to get lines, rounding to the nearest standard size.
- For buttons with shanks, measure only the face, excluding the shank.
- Measure thickness as well – it affects the shank length.
Example: a button with a 20 mm diameter ÷ 0.635 = 31.5, i.e. 32L.
Size and buttonhole
The buttonhole should be slightly longer than the button diameter. The practical rule is: buttonhole length = diameter + button thickness, plus a small allowance for fabric. If you replace buttons with larger ones, the buttonholes may be too small; smaller buttons may slip out. Always measure buttonholes when changing button sizes.
Thickness and profile
Two buttons with the same line size can look very different due to thickness and profile. A button with a wide rim appears larger and heavier, while a flat one looks lighter and smaller. When replacing buttons, compare these parameters as well as diameter. More options are available in polyester buttons and men’s buttons.
Sizes for children’s clothing
Children’s buttons are smaller than adults’ but not too small – they must be easy for small fingers. Children’s coats and waistcoats usually use 20L–28L. Choose buttons with smooth edges and sew them securely. For the youngest children, comply with applicable safety standards regarding small parts.
How to specify sizes in your inquiry
The clearest way is to send a table: garment position, size in lines or mm, profile (with holes or shank), and quantity. For example: front – 32L, 4 holes, 3 pcs per garment; sleeve – 24L, 4 holes, 8 pcs per garment. If you have a button sample, send it – it shows size, profile, and thickness. If working from a foreign pattern, check whether sizes are in lines or millimetres – confusion is a common cause of wrong orders.
Common size selection mistakes
- estimating size “by eye” without measuring;
- confusing diameter with radius or thickness;
- measuring buttons with shanks including the shank;
- forgetting that the buttonhole determines usable size;
- ordering sleeve buttons in the size of front buttons.
Custom sizes from Polkom
Polkom is a manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear, and bags from Sofia with over 30 years of experience. We offer faux horn buttons in a wide range of sizes, with custom sizes and profiles made to order. Send an inquiry with sizes in lines or mm, or send us a button sample.














