Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
There are four main types of zips: metal, nylon coil, moulded plastic and invisible. They differ in the material and shape of the teeth, and therefore in strength, flexibility and appearance. Besides the teeth, zips are also divided by the way they open: closed-end, open-end and two-way.
Types of zips by chain
The chain is the row of teeth that interlock with one another. It determines almost everything else – how the zip is sewn, how much load it takes, how it looks and how much it weighs. Here are the four groups used in garment production.
Metal zips
The teeth are individual elements of brass, aluminium or nickel-plated alloy, clamped onto the tape. A metal zip is the classic choice for jeans, leather jackets, bags and work trousers. Its advantages are strength and a distinctive look, and the finish (nickel, antique brass, gold, black nickel) can be coordinated with eyelets and buttons. Disadvantages – greater weight, a stiffer chain and the need for care when washing. Read more in the metal zips category.
Nylon coil zips
The chain is a continuous nylon (polyester) coil, sewn or woven onto the tape. It is light, flexible, follows the curves of the pattern and does not break when folded. That is why nylon coil zips are the most widespread in mass-market clothing: trousers, skirts, sweatshirts, bed linen, pouches. They are also available by the metre – as continuous zip chain from which zips of the required length are cut.
Moulded plastic zips
Here each tooth is moulded from plastic (most often polyacetal, POM) directly onto the tape. A moulded zip is chunky but light, does not rust and works well in the cold. Typical uses are sportswear and winter clothing, work jackets, backpacks and outdoor equipment. See details on moulded plastic zips.
Invisible zips
An invisible (concealed) zip is a variant of the nylon coil zip in which the coil is on the inside of the tape. Once sewn in, the seam looks like an ordinary seam, and from the outside only a small teardrop-shaped puller is visible. It is used in dresses, skirts, formalwear and cushions. It is sewn with a special invisible zip foot.
Comparison of zip types
| Type | Teeth | Strengths | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Metal | Brass, aluminium, alloy | Strength, look, long life | Jeans, leather, bags, workwear |
| Nylon coil | Nylon coil | Flexibility, low weight, price | Trousers, skirts, sweatshirts, home textiles |
| Moulded plastic | Moulded plastic (POM) | Does not rust, works in the cold | Jackets, sportswear, backpacks |
| Invisible | Reverse coil | Invisible seam | Dresses, skirts, cushions |
Types by opening
The second criterion by which zips are classified is how the chain separates. It does not depend on the material – most types come in all three versions.
- Closed-end zip – the bottom end is joined by a stop and the two halves do not separate. Used for trousers, skirts, pockets, bags and cushions.
- Open-end (separating) zip – at the bottom end there is a pin and box, so the two halves separate completely. Needed for jackets, sweatshirts and gilets.
- Two-way zip – with two sliders. It can be open-end (for long jackets and parkas that open from the bottom) or closed at both ends (for suitcases, tents and holdalls).
Other differences that matter
Size (number)
The zip number (No. 3, No. 5, No. 8, No. 10) roughly corresponds to the width of the closed chain in millimetres. A larger number means larger teeth, a wider tape and a higher load. No. 3 is chosen for fine products, No. 5 for general use, and No. 8 and No. 10 for heavy jackets and luggage.
Slider
The slider can be auto-lock (self-locking – it stays in place when the puller is down), non-locking, with a double-sided puller for reversible garments, or decorative. On trousers an auto-lock slider is essential, otherwise the zip slides down by itself.
Tape and finishes
The tape is most often polyester, but there are also cotton tapes for jeans and water-resistant tapes with polyurethane coating for technical garments. On metal zips, the finish of the teeth is a separate design option.
How to choose the type of zip for your product
- Determine the load: light fabric or a heavy jacket, everyday use or workwear.
- Choose the type of chain according to the look and conditions – metal for a classic look, coil for flexibility, moulded teeth for moisture and cold, an invisible zip for a hidden seam.
- Decide whether the product needs to separate completely (open-end) or not (closed-end), and whether two sliders are needed.
- Choose the size, length and colour – to a fabric sample or a Pantone reference.
- Ask for a sample and test it on the actual product before the series order.
If you work with branded products, also see YKK zips, which we also supply. The full range is collected in the zips category.
Common mistakes when choosing a zip
- Too small a size for a heavy product. A No. 3 in a winter jacket looks elegant but quickly splits under load.
- A metal zip in a garment that is often washed at high temperature. The finish can darken and the teeth can stain light fabric if not chosen correctly.
- A non-locking slider on trousers. The zip slides down with movement – a small detail that leads to complaints.
- Wrong length for an open-end zip. An open-end zip cannot be shortened from the bottom, so the length is determined precisely from the pattern.
Zips from Polkom for your production
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer and supplier of garment accessories based in Sofia, with over 30 years of experience. We offer all the main types of zips, sliders with logo, colours to a sample and the option to combine buttons, labels and haberdashery in one order, with delivery across the EU. Send an inquiry describing the product and we will suggest a suitable type and send a sample.
