For bag zips, spiral zips size 5 are most commonly used – lightweight, flexible and easy to sew around corners. Metal zips size 5 are chosen for leather and luxury bags for their appearance, while backpacks, duffels and luggage use spiral or moulded zips sizes 8 and 10 with two-way sliders. Load, material and opening method are decisive factors.
Zips for bags: what makes them different
Unlike garment zips, bag zips are often curved, sewn around corners or run along the entire perimeter, bearing the weight of the contents and opening dozens of times daily. Therefore, the choice is more technical than for clothing. Four key aspects matter: chain type, size, sliders and tape.
Chain types
Spiral zip
The most versatile option. The spiral bends easily, making it ideal for curved bags, pouches, cases and zips that go around corners. Available by the meter – convenient for serial production with varying lengths. For heavy backpacks and duffels, spiral zips sizes 8 and 10 are used.
Metal zip
Preferred for leather and designer bags, wallets and cases. Finishes – gold, nickel colour (nickel free), antique brass, black nickel colour – match the buckles, rings and metal logo plates on the bag. Heavier and harder to sew around tight curves. See metal zips.
Moulded zip
Solid plastic teeth that do not rust and resist moisture and sand. Suitable for hiking backpacks, beach bags, sports duffels and gear bags. More in moulded zips.
Size by bag type
| Product | Recommended type | Size |
|---|---|---|
| Pouch, small case, wallet | Spiral or metal | Size 3 |
| Women's bag | Spiral or metal | Size 5 |
| Everyday backpack | Spiral or moulded | Size 5–8 |
| Hiking backpack | Spiral or moulded | Size 8–10 |
| Duffel, travel bag, suitcase | Spiral | Size 8–10 |
| Equipment case | Spiral or moulded | Size 8–10 |
Sliders and pulls
For bags, the slider plays a bigger role than in garments.
- Two-way sliders – on backpacks, duffels and suitcases, allowing the compartment to open from both sides; both sliders can be locked with a padlock.
- Non-locking sliders – for smoother movement on bags that open frequently.
- Cord or tape pulls – convenient for backpacks; combined with cord stoppers and cord ends.
- Metal pulls with logo – on branded bags, the pull is a visible brand element.
Waterproof and special options
For outdoor backpacks and bags, zips with polyurethane-coated tape and inward-facing spiral prevent water penetration. These are stiffer and require stronger pulling, often paired with extended pulls. Reflective tapes are another useful option for children's backpacks.
Zips by the meter for bags
For producing bags in many sizes, continuous spiral chain by the meter is practical; cut to length and fitted with sliders. One roll covers all models, reducing stock. Sliders must match the chain size and type. Use textile cord ends to cover visible cut edges on finished products.
Replacing bag zips
Bag repairs most often involve slider replacement, which wears faster than the chain, especially on full bags. If teeth are intact, only the slider is replaced. Leather bag zip replacement requires seam unpicking and precise resewing, so the new zip must have the same tape width.
Zip colour and appearance
In women's bags, the zip is part of the design. The tape can match the leather or fabric colour or contrast, and metal teeth finish matches other metal accessories. Some brands use wider tape zips as decorative lines, others hide the zip under a flap. In backpacks, colour often has a functional role: contrasting tape or pull helps find the zip quickly. Colours are chosen by material swatch or Pantone; approve a live sample before production as tape colour looks different on leather, fabric and PVC.
Zips for faux leather and PVC bags
On these materials, every needle hole is permanent, so the zip must be positioned precisely the first time. Use adhesive tape instead of pins and order the exact length to avoid adjustments.
Common mistakes in zip selection
- Metal zip on tight curves – teeth jam.
- Too small zip size for backpack – zip opens under full load.
- Single slider on large duffel – inconvenient opening and faster wear.
- Zip finish not matching bag metal accessories.
Planning a production run
Before ordering, list all zips in the model: main compartment, pockets, internal pockets, expansion zips. Specify length, size, type and slider for each. Request samples, sew into prototype and test under real load. Full range is in the zips category.
Polkom – Manufacturer of zips and metal accessories for bags
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories from Sofia with over 30 years of experience. Besides zips, we offer buckles, rings, metal logo plates and logo pulls, so all bag hardware matches in style. Send a request with your model description and quantities.














