Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Classic bone jacket buttons are around 30L–32L (19–20 mm) on the front and 24L (about 15 mm) on the sleeves, flat, with four holes and a rim. Natural bone suits light linen and cotton jackets, while dyed and scorched bone suits wool, tweed and corduroy. Bone gives a dense, solid look that underlines the quality of the tailoring.
Why bone buttons for a jacket
In classic tailoring, a jacket button should be made of a natural material, be stable and sit in proportion with the lapel. Traditionally horn is used most often, but bone is a fully-fledged alternative with a different character: lighter, opaque, with a soft porcelain-like sheen. It works particularly well on summer and country jackets, on tweed, herringbone and corduroy, as well as on retro-style designs.
Standard jacket button sizes
| Position | Size in lignes | Approximately, mm |
|---|---|---|
| Front of a men's jacket | 30L–32L | 19.0–20.3 |
| Front of a women's jacket | 24L–30L | 15.2–19.0 |
| Sleeves | 24L | 15.2 |
| Pocket flaps (on sports jackets) | 24L | 15.2 |
| Suit waistcoat | 24L–26L | 15.2–16.5 |
| Trousers (inside button, braces) | 20L–24L | 12.7–15.2 |
The sizes are approximate; for women's jackets the choice is freer and determined by the design.
Number of buttons
Front
- Single-breasted jacket – most often 2 buttons, less often 1 or 3.
- Double-breasted jacket – 4 or 6 buttons, some of them decorative, plus an inside button.
Sleeves
Usually 3 or 4 buttons per sleeve. The buttons can be sewn side by side or slightly overlapping (so-called "kissing" buttons). In made-to-measure tailoring the sleeve buttonholes are often functional and the cuff can be unbuttoned.
Additional
- buttons for pocket flaps on sports and tweed jackets;
- a button for the collar tab on country styles;
- spare buttons – one of each size, sewn into the inner lining or supplied in a bag.
Bone jacket buttons by fabric
| Fabric | Recommended finish |
|---|---|
| Linen and cotton in light tones | natural polished bone |
| Tweed, herringbone | mottled scorched bone |
| Corduroy in brown and green | toned or matte bone |
| Dark suiting wool | dark-dyed bone or horn |
| Summer seersucker | natural or light bone |
For a business suit in navy or grey, dark buttons are traditionally chosen. If you are looking for the most classic look possible, compare with horn buttons. For nautical-style blazers, metal buttons are the standard.
Women's jackets and blazers
On women's styles the button is often a stronger design accent. A single large domed bone button on a short fitted jacket, or a row of smaller buttons on a longline blazer, completely changes the silhouette. Shank buttons are also used here, as they sit raised and have no visible holes. Light bone is an excellent contrast to black and dark fabrics when the aim is for the button to stand out. On women's jackets the fastening is traditionally on the other side, which does not matter for the button itself but must be reflected in the tech pack when programming the buttonhole and button-sewing machines.
A button set for a suit
When producing a suit, it is convenient to order the buttons as a set for one garment: a given number of large buttons for the front, small ones for the sleeves and the waistcoat, and inside buttons for the trousers. All must come from one batch so that the tone is consistent. With natural bone this is especially important, because buttons from different batches may differ in shade.
Sewing buttons on a jacket
- The front buttons are sewn with a thread shank matched to the thickness of the front – usually slightly shorter than on a coat.
- Sleeve buttons are sewn flat, without much of a shank, in a straight line, evenly spaced or slightly overlapping.
- With functional cuffs, the buttons are sewn on after the buttonholes are made and the sleeve length has been finally fitted.
- Use strong thread in the colour of the button or fabric; in made-to-measure tailoring silk thread is often used.
In series production, sewing is done on machines with programmed patterns for 4 holes and a shank. It is important that the holes on all buttons in the batch are the same distance apart, so the needle does not break.
Care
Jackets and suits are usually dry-cleaned. Bone withstands standard dry cleaning, but when pressing, the hot plate must not press on the button. If the jacket is linen or cotton and is washed in water, use a low temperature and a gentle programme.
A logo on the button
Jacket buttons rarely carry a large visible mark – this is considered rather incompatible with the classic style. More discreet options are a small monogram on the sleeve button, the atelier's name engraved around the rim or a logo on the back. Bone allows a clear, fine engraving.
You can browse the available designs in the bone buttons category.
Jacket buttons from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags, based in Sofia, with over 30 years of experience. We supply bone buttons in sets for jackets and suits, with a consistent tone within the batch, engrave logos and offer button attaching. Send an inquiry via our contact form with the fabric and the number of styles.
