Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Buttons for a double-breasted jacket are described with a two-figure layout: the first figure shows how many buttons there are in total on the front, and the second how many of them can actually be fastened. The most classic layout is 6x2. Besides the visible buttons, a double-breasted jacket always has an inside button that holds the under-wrap in place. The front buttons are usually 30L–32L, the sleeve buttons 24L, and the inside button is smaller and flat.
Button layouts on a double-breasted jacket
| Layout | Description | Character |
|---|---|---|
| 6x2 | Six buttons in two columns, one row fastens | The most classic and versatile option |
| 6x1 | Six buttons, the lowest one fastens | Long lapel, elongated silhouette |
| 4x2 | Four buttons, one row fastens | More compact, more modern look |
| 4x1 | Four buttons, the lower one fastens | Relaxed, more informal silhouette |
| 2x1 | Two buttons, one fastens | Minimalist and modern |
In the 6x2 and 6x1 layouts the top pair of buttons is often set slightly wider apart than the others. This creates a V-shaped line that visually broadens the shoulders and is a typical feature of the classic double-breasted jacket.
Double-breasted jacket buttons: how many you need
When planning the order, count all positions:
- Visible front buttons: 2, 4 or 6 depending on the layout, size 30L–32L.
- Inside button (jigger): one, usually flat, matching the lining or the fabric.
- Sleeves: 3–4 per sleeve, size 24L.
- Inside pockets: one small button each, if the pocket fastens.
- Spares: at least one of each size.
For a 6x2 jacket with four buttons per sleeve this means six large and eight small visible buttons, plus the inside button and spares.
The inside button – why it is essential
On a double-breasted jacket one front panel passes under the other. Without fastening, the under-wrap would sag and spoil the line. That is why there is a button on the inside that fastens into a buttonhole on the lower panel. In English it is called a jigger button. It is not visible from the outside, so it is usually simpler – flat, with four holes, around 20L–24L, in the colour of the fabric or the lining.
Some jackets also have a second inside button or a tab, especially in heavier fabrics. The principle is the same for double-breasted coats.
How a double-breasted jacket is fastened
- Fasten the inside button first.
- Fasten the functional visible button according to the layout – on a 6x2, the middle one in the right-hand column; on a 6x1 and 4x1, the lower one.
- A double-breasted jacket is usually worn buttoned when standing, and some men undo the lowest button when sitting down.
In most layouts the buttons in the left-hand column are decorative and sewn on flat, without a buttonhole.
Double-breasted jacket with an anchor button
Some classic double-breasted jackets have, in addition to the jigger, a so-called anchor button – an extra button on the inside of the upper panel that fastens into a buttonhole on the lower one. It stabilises the front at two points and prevents the under-wrap from slipping during movement. The anchor button is not essential, but it is found on tailored garments and on jackets in heavier fabrics such as flannel and wool twill.
Double-breasted coat and trench coat
The button logic is the same on outerwear, but the sizes are larger – usually 36L–44L on the front. Trench coats often have an extra button on the collar, buttons on the epaulettes and on the sleeve straps, so the total number of buttons on one garment easily exceeds fifteen. When planning production, draw up a table of all positions and sizes so you do not miss a single button in the order.
Choosing material and type
- Classic double-breasted suit: horn or corozo matching the fabric, matte or satin finish. See the horn buttons.
- Double-breasted blazer: metal buttons in a gold or silver tone, often with relief or a crest. Browse the metal buttons.
- Modern double-breasted suit: flatter buttons in a contrasting or dark colour, sometimes with a polished finish.
- Eveningwear: satin-covered or polished black buttons.
Because a double-breasted jacket has more buttons arranged in a geometric layout, any difference in shade is easier to see. Order all visible buttons from one batch.
Placement and sewing
The distance between the columns and between the rows determines the silhouette, so the positions should be marked with a template from the pattern, not by eye. The functional button is sewn on with a thread shank so that it passes easily through the buttonhole in the thick double layer of fabric. The decorative buttons are also sewn on with a small shank so they sit in line with the functional ones. The inside button is sewn on tightly and securely because it carries a constant load.
Double-breasted jacket and logo
On blazers and uniform double-breasted jackets, an engraved or raised logo on the buttons is a common detail. With six front buttons, consistent positioning of the logo is important – the mark must be oriented the same way on all of them, so with sew-through buttons the direction is marked before sewing.
Common mistakes
- the inside button forgotten in the specification;
- a mismatch in shade between the buttons in the two columns;
- asymmetric placement of the top pair;
- a functional button sewn on without a shank, which is difficult to fasten;
- buttons that are too small for the wide double-breasted lapel.
Buttons for double-breasted jackets from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags from Sofia with over 30 years of experience. In the men’s buttons section you will find sets for jackets, and to order we make buttons in colours matched to a sample and with a logo, including inside buttons to match the lining. Send an inquiry via the contact page.
