Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
French Chantilly lace is a fine lace with a very light hexagonal net and floral motifs outlined with a thicker thread called cordonnet. It takes its name from the town of Chantilly near Paris, where it was once made by hand as bobbin lace. Today French lace is produced mainly on Leavers machines, which reproduce the hand technique. It is a byword for luxury lingerie, bridal gowns and eveningwear.
The origins of French lace
Handmade Chantilly lace was worked on bobbins, often in silk and in black, which still makes it instantly recognisable. In the 19th century Leavers machines were invented in England, and their use later flourished in France – in the Calais and Caudry region. These machines run slowly and demand highly skilled operators, but they can reproduce the delicate net and intricate motifs of handmade lace. That is why “French lace” today usually means lace made with this technology.
How to recognise Chantilly lace
- The net is very fine, light and sheer, usually with hexagonal openings.
- The motif is floral or ornamental, with denser areas that remain slightly translucent.
- Cordonnet – a thicker thread outlines the motif and gives it relief.
- The edge is often scalloped, sometimes with “eyelashes” – fine loose threads along the border.
- The hand is soft and fluid; the lace drapes gently rather than standing stiff.
Chantilly vs Raschel lace – the differences
Raschel lace can also have a fine net and an outlined motif, and modern machines bring it ever closer in appearance. Still, there are differences a specialist will notice:
| Feature | Leavers / Chantilly | Raschel |
|---|---|---|
| Technology | imitates handmade bobbin lace | warp-knitting machine |
| Net | very fine, with twisted threads | knitted, more uniform |
| Motif | deeper relief, finer detail | flatter, but very varied |
| Production speed | slow | high |
| Price segment | luxury | from mass market to mid-range and premium |
For series lingerie and apparel, Raschel lace is a sensible choice, while Chantilly is used where the lace is the main feature of the garment.
What French lace is used for
Luxury lingerie
Bras, briefs, bodysuits and nightdresses with Chantilly look light and delicate. The lace is combined with soft tulle, satin and narrow elastics.
Bridal and evening gowns
Chantilly gives a romantic, “airy” look – for sleeves, backs, veils, overlays and hems. Black Chantilly is a classic for evening dresses and accessories.
Blouses, skirts and details
The lace is used as an insert, collar or cuff. It pairs well with satin ribbon for belts and ties and with organza ribbon for decorative details.
Colours and combinations
The classic colours of French lace are black, white, ivory and nude tones. Black Chantilly over a nude base creates the “bare skin” effect typical of eveningwear and lingerie. White and ivory dominate bridal fashion, while pastel and powder tones prevail in nightwear and loungewear.
When lace is placed over a lining, the lining colour changes how the motif is perceived. A light lining under black lace emphasises it, while a tone-on-tone lining makes it subtle and almost invisible. So check the sample on the actual lining, not just against a white background.
How to plan the yardage
Fine lace is bought by the metre, and wastage is higher because pieces are cut following the motif. Work out how many repeats of the motif each piece needs, add a reserve for matching the motif at the seams, and order the full quantity from a single batch so there is no difference in shade.
How to sew Chantilly
The fine net needs care when sewing:
- cut along the motif, using the scalloped edge as a ready finish with no hem;
- join pieces with an appliqué seam – trim around the motif and overlap it onto the adjacent piece;
- use a fine needle and a fine polyester thread in a matching colour;
- place paper or a water-soluble stabiliser underneath if the machine pulls the net;
- for fastening delicate dresses and lingerie, use small wire hooks and eyes instead of heavy closures.
What determines the price of French lace
“French lace price” is a common search, but a price without parameters means little. It depends on:
- the technology – Leavers or Raschel, handmade or machine-made;
- the width – edging, ribbon or full-width fabric;
- the raw material – polyamide, silk, viscose, cotton;
- the complexity of the motif and whether it has eyelashes and cordonnet;
- dyeing to a custom colour;
- the order quantity.
For a specific quote, send an inquiry with a description and a photo of the lace you want.
Caring for Chantilly lace garments
Garments with fine lace should be hand washed or machine washed in a mesh bag on a delicate cycle, at a low temperature and with a mild detergent. Do not wring them; blot with a towel and dry flat. Iron at a low temperature, through a cloth and on the reverse side.
Lace for lingerie and dresses from Polkom
Polkom is a Sofia-based manufacturer of accessories and haberdashery for apparel with over 30 years of experience. In our lace category we offer lace for lingerie, dresses and bridalwear. If you are looking for a Chantilly-type lace, we will check the available options and offer samples and dyeing to Pantone. Describe the look and width you need or send a photo via the inquiry form, and we will suggest suitable options.
