Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Guipure lace is a dense, raised lace in which the motifs are joined to each other directly by short bars, with no net (tulle) ground. It is stiffer and more three-dimensional than classic lace, holds its shape and is used for formal and bridal gowns, blouses, collars, appliqués and decorative panels. It is most often produced by embroidering onto a soluble base, which is then removed.
What guipure lace is and how it is made
The word “guipure” comes from French and originally meant lace with raised motifs worked around a thicker thread. In modern production, guipure is usually made on embroidery machines: the motif is embroidered with a dense stitch onto a base of water-soluble or chemically soluble material. After embroidery the base is dissolved, leaving only the embroidery itself – motifs connected by fine thread bars. That is why in the trade guipure is also known as “chemical lace” or “groundless lace”.
The result is a material with clearly defined flowers, leaves, geometric shapes or ornaments that stand out from the surface. Density and volume depend on the yarn type, the stitch count and whether the motif is padded with cordonnet – a thicker thread along the outline.
Guipure lace vs lace on a tulle base
| Characteristic | Guipure | Lace on tulle (Raschel, embroidered) |
|---|---|---|
| Ground | none, motifs joined by bars | fine net, visible between motifs |
| Stiffness | stiffer, holds its shape | soft, drapes |
| Relief | pronounced, three-dimensional | flatter, except for embroidered lace |
| Stretch | almost non-stretch | may contain elastane |
| Typical use | dresses, blouses, collars, appliqués | lingerie, linings, edges, veils |
The practical consequence is that guipure is not suitable for close-fitting garments that need to stretch, such as lingerie and swimwear. Stretch lace is better for those. Guipure, on the other hand, excels where you want structure: a standing sleeve, a shaped collar or a bodice panel that does not wrinkle.
When to choose guipure lace
- Formal and cocktail dresses – as an overlay on a lining in a contrasting or nude colour so the motif stands out.
- Bridal gowns – for bodices, sleeves and trains, often combined with tulle and satin.
- Blouses and tunics – entire fronts or inserts at the shoulder and neckline.
- Collars and cuffs – guipure holds its shape without extra interfacing.
- Appliqués – individual motifs are cut out and sewn onto dresses, jackets or bags.
- Edgings – narrow guipure trims along a hem, sleeve or neckline.
Types of guipure by format
Guipure fabric (full width)
Produced as a fabric in a width suitable for cutting whole pieces. Used for fronts, backs and sleeves. When cutting, watch the direction and symmetry of the motifs – pieces are usually cut singly, not on folded fabric.
Guipure edging and trim
Narrow trims with one or two decorative edges. Suitable for finishing edges and for decorative lines along seams. Sold by the metre or by the roll.
Guipure motifs and appliqués
Individual flowers, leaves or medallions ready to sew on. They let you add an accent without making an entire piece in lace.
How to sew guipure
Because it has no ground, guipure does not fray like woven fabric, but the bars can break if cut incorrectly. Some practical rules:
- Cut along the outline of the motifs, not across them, and keep the bars intact.
- Use a fine needle (size 70–80) and polyester thread matching the lace.
- To join pieces, use the overlap method: lay one piece over the other and stitch by hand or with a narrow zigzag along the motif outline, then trim away the excess. This way the seam is practically invisible.
- When sewing over a lining, secure the guipure with hand tacks so the motifs do not shift.
- Iron on the reverse side on a soft surface (a towel) so the relief is not flattened.
What to look for when buying
- Motif density – a denser stitch is more durable and looks richer.
- The bars – they should be strong and even; thin, sparse bars break in wear.
- Composition – polyester is durable and colourfast, viscose and cotton are more matte and soft. The composition goes on the garment label under Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011.
- Colour – check a sample in daylight, especially white and ivory tones, which look different next to different fabrics.
- Motif repeat – with fabric you know how often the motif repeats across the width and length, which affects consumption when cutting.
Guipure pairs well with organza ribbon for belts and bows, and with embroidery when a brand wants additional decorative elements in the same collection.
Caring for guipure garments
Guipure garments should be washed gently – by hand or in a mesh bag on a delicate cycle at a low temperature, without high-speed spinning. Do not wring them. Dry flat. If the guipure is combined with a lining or satin, care is determined by the most delicate material, and this must be reflected on the care label.
Wholesale guipure lace from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories and haberdashery for apparel, headquartered in Sofia with over 30 years of experience. Our lace range includes guipure as fabric, edgings and motifs in various colours. We work with garment manufacturers, bridal ateliers and traders across the EU and can send samples before you plan production. Minimum quantities and price depend on the item – send us a request for a quote with a description of the motif, width and colour.
