Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
To specify haberdashery trims in a tech pack, record for each item its type, width, composition, colour, consumption per piece, exact placement and attachment method, plus the supplier’s article number. This data lets the factory sew the style without questions and lets the supplier offer the exact material and an accurate quote. Vague trims in the tech pack are one of the most common causes of delays and errors in production.
Why trims in the tech pack are often incomplete
Designers spend a lot of time on the fabric and the pattern, while the trims are left with a note like “elastic at waist” or “black tape along the edge”. The factory then picks whatever is at hand, and the result differs from the prototype. On a repeat order the problem recurs because nobody remembers exactly which elastic was used. A complete specification solves this once and for all.
Which parameters to record
| Field | Example | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Type | woven elastic, herringbone tape, round cord | different types behave differently |
| Width / diameter | 35 mm, 10 mm, Ø 5 mm | determines the casing pattern and the eyelets |
| Composition | polyester / elastane, 100% cotton | shrinkage, ironing, care and composition label |
| Colour | Pantone code or “tone-on-tone with fabric” | colour match |
| Consumption per piece | by size | calculating the order |
| Placement | waist, back, hood, neckline | clarity for the machinist |
| Attachment method | in a casing, coverstitched, in the seam | sequence of operations |
| Tension | elastic length relative to the opening | fit and comfort |
| Supplier and article | article number | repeatability |
| Branding | logo, position, technique | correct custom order |
Specific instructions by trim type
Elastics
Besides the width, record whether the elastic is knitted or woven and its relaxed length for each size. State the stretch ratio as well – for example, the elastic is a certain percentage shorter than the circumference of the opening. Woven elastic holds its shape better in wide waistbands, which is why woven elastic is often chosen for workwear and classic trousers. If the elastic is visible, note which edge is the face side.
Ribbons and tapes
Specify the type (satin, grosgrain, organza, herringbone), the width and how the ends are finished – turned under, heat-sealed or hidden in the seam. For herringbone tape used to stabilise a shoulder or neckline, note whether it is sewn under tension or loose.
Cords
Record the diameter or width, round or flat shape, the finished cord length and whether the ends are finished with cord ends, a knot or sealing. The thickness must match the inner diameter of the eyelet. For childrenswear, add a check against the requirements of EN 14682.
Lace
For lace, the width, edge type (scalloped on one or both sides), motif direction and repeat – the length after which the motif repeats – all matter. Note whether the lace is gathered and at what ratio, and how the ends are joined so the motif matches.
Hook and loop
Specify the width, the length of each piece, which part (hooks or loops) goes on which side of the garment and the corner shape.
Example of a specification line
- Placement: waistband of children’s trousers, in a casing.
- Item: knitted elastic 25 mm, black, polyester / elastane.
- Length by size: separate table across the size range.
- Joining: 2 cm overlap, double zigzag stitch.
- Check: recovery after washing, elastic must not twist in the casing.
How the specification helps with ordering
With a complete trims table, calculating the order is easy: consumption per piece by size, multiplied by the number of pieces in each size, plus an allowance for cutting and testing. Send this table to the supplier together with photos or sketches. They will confirm the available items, suggest equivalents where needed and give you a quote that can be compared with others without surprises.
The table also serves for quality control when receiving the delivery – you check width, colour and composition against the recorded values before the material enters the factory.
Sample and approval
A tech pack is not finished until the trims have been tested in a real garment. The process looks like this:
- Order samples of the selected items according to the specification.
- Sew a prototype with these materials, not with whatever the atelier has in stock.
- Wash and iron the prototype according to the care symbols.
- Record the results – shrinkage, colour change, elastic recovery.
- Give final approval to the items and attach a piece of each to the tech pack.
A physical trim sample attached to the tech pack or to the approved sample garment is the best reference when receiving the bulk delivery.
Common mistakes
- “elastic 3 cm” with no type or composition;
- colour “black” without checking against the black fabric – shades of black differ;
- length given only for the base size, not for every size;
- no note on whether the cord has cord ends;
- no article number, so a different material is bought for the repeat order.
Trims for your tech pack from Polkom
Polkom is a Sofia-based manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags with over 30 years of experience and more than 10,000 articles. We can help you choose elastics, tapes, cords, lace and hook and loop from the haberdashery category, combine them with buttons, zips and labels, and give you article numbers for the specification. We make samples quickly and deliver across the EU. Send your tech pack or bill of materials via the inquiry form.
