Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Metal coat buttons are chosen by three criteria: size, weight and finish. The front of a coat usually takes buttons between 32L and 44L (about 20–28 mm), and with heavy wool fabrics you need a solid but well-balanced shank button with a backing button on the inside. Classic examples are the pea coat with anchors, the military greatcoat and the women's coat with large decorative buttons.
Why a coat can carry a metal button
The coat is the heaviest garment in the wardrobe, and its buttons take a lot of strain when putting it on, walking and sitting. Metal is strong, does not crack in the cold and keeps its shape for years. Dense wool fabric tolerates a heavier button without being pulled out of shape, which allows the use of solid zinc alloy styles with expressive relief.
Sizes of metal coat buttons
| Type of coat | Front | Sleeve / epaulette |
|---|---|---|
| Classic men's coat | 36L–40L (23–25 mm) | 24L–28L (15–18 mm) |
| Pea coat | 36L–44L (23–28 mm) | 24L–30L (15–19 mm) |
| Greatcoat and uniform coat | 32L–40L (20–25 mm) | 24L (15 mm) |
| Women's coat | 30L–54L (19–34 mm) | 20L–28L (13–18 mm) |
| Trench coat | 30L–36L (19–23 mm) | 24L (15 mm) |
1L = 0.635 mm. The values are approximate – on women's coats the size is often a design decision and can exceed 40 mm on styles with one large button.
Weight – the most underestimated parameter
A solid zinc alloy button with a diameter of 25 mm can be several times heavier than a plastic one of the same size. On a wool coat this is an advantage – the button sits steadily and gives a quality feel. On a lighter fabric, such as a cashmere blend or gabardine, a heavy button pulls the front down and over time stretches the buttonhole.
- Heavy fabrics (melton, thick wool) – solid cast buttons, deep relief.
- Medium fabrics – stamped brass buttons or hollow alloy styles.
- Light fabrics – aluminium buttons or combinations of metal with another material.
Finishes for metal coat buttons
A coat is worn outdoors, in damp, snow and road salt. That is why the finish must resist abrasion and corrosion. Popular options are:
- antique brass and antique bronze for pea coats and classic coats;
- dark nickel colour and black nickel colour (nickel free) for modern and minimalist styles;
- glossy gold and silver for uniform coats and greatcoats;
- matte finishes when you do not want the button to reflect light.
If the coat has metal buckles on the belt or sleeves, coordinate the finish so there is no difference in tone.
Metal buttons for pea coats and greatcoats
The pea coat is traditionally double-breasted, with six or eight buttons on the front, often with a raised anchor. The buttons are large, dark or in antique brass, and are visible from a distance, so the relief must be clear. Greatcoats and uniform coats are also double-breasted, with plain or crest buttons, often removable with a split ring for cleaning. With both styles the quantity per coat is considerable – count the front, sleeves, epaulettes, flaps and spares.
Sewing on metal coat buttons
- Use strong polyester thread, doubled, or a special button thread.
- Leave a long thread shank – as long as the thickness of the buttonhole edge plus 1–2 mm.
- At the same time sew a small backing button on the inside of the front.
- Wind the thread around the shank and secure it with a few stitches.
The backing button spreads the load and protects the wool from tearing when the coat is often buttoned up wearing gloves.
In serial production, coat buttons are often attached on a shank-button sewing machine, which forms the thread wrap automatically. Check whether the machine supports the shank height of the chosen metal button – on solid styles the shank is higher and thicker than standard, and sometimes the backing button needs to be finished by hand.
Common mistakes with metal coat buttons
- Choosing a button only from a photo, without testing it on the actual fabric – weight and size look different in reality.
- Buttonholes sized for a flat button when a thicker domed button has been ordered.
- Sewing on without a backing button, which leads to the wool tearing around the shank.
- Different shades of antique finish between the front and sleeve buttons when they are ordered separately.
- A finish that is too shiny on an everyday coat, which looks cheaper than intended.
Caring for a coat with metal buttons
Most wool coats are dry-cleaned. If the buttons are removable, take them off before cleaning. If they are sewn on, ask the dry cleaner to protect them with foil or an aluminium cap – solvents and the drum can scratch the finish. Between seasons, store the coat in a fabric garment bag rather than plastic so that moisture does not collect around the metal parts.
Alternatives to metal buttons
If you want the button in the same colour as the coat, look at fabric-covered buttons in fabric or leather – they often have a metal base, but the visible surface is made of the coat material. For a classic men's look there are also horn and corozo styles in the men's buttons category.
Metal coat buttons from the manufacturer
Polkom manufactures and delivers metal buttons for outerwear – in standard sizes, with anchors, crests and logos to your design, in a wide range of finishes. We make samples quickly so you can check the button on the actual fabric, and deliver across the EU. Send an inquiry with the size, the type of coat and the quantity via the contact page.
