Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Elastic that does not roll is a dense woven elastic with lengthwise ribs, also known as non-roll elastic. The ribs act like tiny corset bones: they make the band stiff across its width and flexible along its length, so it stays flat in the casing even during wear and washing. Rolling is also prevented by the correct casing width and by securing the elastic.
Why waistband elastic rolls
Rolling is the most common complaint about trousers and skirts with an elasticated waist. The causes are almost always one or more of the following:
- soft construction – knitted and braided elastic bends easily across its width and folds when the wearer bends over;
- a casing that is too wide – the elastic has room to rotate around its axis;
- loose elastic – the elastic is not caught into the seams and moves in the casing;
- loss of elasticity – after many high-temperature washes the elastic softens and starts to fold;
- mismatch with the fabric – heavy fabric and light elastic: the weight of the garment pulls the elastic down.
How non-roll elastic works
Non-roll elastic is woven with raised lengthwise ribs (ribbed elastic) or with a dense, firm weave across its whole width. Because every lengthwise yarn is held by the weft, the band cannot narrow, and the ribs increase its stiffness across the width. So when bending and sitting, the elastic flexes along its length with the body but does not fold crosswise.
That is why ribbed woven elastic is the standard choice for waistbands of casual and work trousers, skirts in dense fabrics, shorts and children’s tracksuits. Browse the options in the woven elastic category.
Non-roll elastic: sewing rules
Even the best elastic can twist if the garment is sewn incorrectly. Follow these rules:
- The casing – only a few millimetres wider than the elastic. A guide is 3–5 mm extra; more room allows rotation.
- Secure the elastic at the side seams. After threading it, stitch vertically through the casing and elastic at the side seams and the centre back seam.
- Use lengthwise topstitching with wide elastic. Two or three parallel rows through the casing and elastic (stretched) divide the band into strips and almost eliminate rolling.
- Join the ends flat. Overlap them by about 2 cm and stitch with a box or zigzag; do not sew them right sides together, as this creates a hard lump.
- Distribute the gathers evenly. Uneven gathering creates zones of different tension where the elastic folds.
How to choose the width
Wider elastic generally rolls less easily, but only if the casing is sized for it. As a guide:
| Item | Commonly used width |
|---|---|
| Children’s trousers and skirts | 20–30 mm |
| Women’s skirts and trousers | 25–40 mm |
| Men’s and work trousers | 30–50 mm |
| Tracksuits and sports shorts | 30–40 mm |
These values are a guide from practice, not a rule. The final choice depends on the fabric, the cut and the desired look of the waist.
Soft or firm non-roll elastic
Non-roll elastic is not necessarily stiff and uncomfortable. The stiffness across the width comes from the ribs and the weave, while the stretch along the length is controlled by the amount and type of elastic yarn. For casual clothing a moderate stretch is preferred, and for work and uniform trousers a stronger one that holds the weight of pockets and a belt. If you need different levels of stretch within one collection, discuss this in advance – with woven elastic it is set during production.
How to check a sample
- fold the elastic crosswise with your fingers – good non-roll elastic resists and straightens itself;
- stretch it – the width should remain practically the same;
- sew a test waistband, wear it for a few hours and wash it several times;
- check whether the length returns to its original value after washing.
Washing and care so it does not roll later
Elastic can be flat on delivery and roll after a few months. This is usually a result of care. High tumble dryer temperatures and frequent washing at 60 °C and above weaken the elastic yarns, especially rubber ones. Weakened elastic loses its stretch, the weight of the fabric pulls it down and it starts to fold.
- State a realistic washing temperature for the item on the care label.
- For items washed often and hot, choose elastic with elastane instead of rubber.
- Avoid ironing the elasticated waist with a hot iron – iron through a cloth on a low setting.
- Dry on a line, not on a radiator or in a dryer on a high setting.
How to specify the stretch when ordering
When inquiring about non-roll elastic, it is helpful to state not only the width but also how the band will work. Describe the fabric (light, medium or heavy), whether the waist has a waistband, zips and buttons or is fully elasticated, and whether the elastic is visible from the outside. This information helps to choose the right ratio between elastic and base yarns. If you have a competitor’s item or an old sample with a stretch you like, send it – it is the most accurate guide.
Additional waist solutions
For waists with ties, combine the elastic with a cord threaded through the same or a separate casing; for sports items, with rings and cord stoppers from the haberdashery section. In the elastics category you will also find other types of tape for edges and cuffs.
Ordering from the manufacturer
Polkom manufactures and delivers non-roll woven elastic to garment factories, brands and traders throughout the EU – in standard colours or in a colour matched to a sample, with the right width and stretch. Send the pattern or a description of the item via the contact page and we will propose samples.
