Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Snap buttons for jackets and coats are chosen from strong systems that can handle dense fabrics and several layers of material: the 61 system and the special heavy-duty systems. They fasten more firmly than the 54 system, do not open accidentally when moving and withstand hundreds of fastenings. The most commonly used cap sizes on outerwear are between 12.5 and 20 mm, and up to 25 and 30 mm for coats and bold styles.
What a snap on outerwear has to withstand
A jacket or coat puts strain on the snap differently from a shirt. The placket consists of several layers – face fabric, interfacing, sometimes lining and wadding. The snap is opened sharply, often with gloves, and pocket flaps and cuffs take tension. So snap buttons for jackets need:
- a stronger female part with a spring and a larger head on the male part;
- a bottom part that reaches through the whole stack of layers;
- a cap of sufficient diameter to be gripped easily;
- a finish that does not wear off with friction and washing.
Snap buttons for jackets: 61-system models
The 61 system is the main choice for jackets, denim jackets, trench coats and coats – fabrics such as denim, wool, oilcloth and leather.
| Code | Model | Sizes | Logo | Features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| H61-10 | 61 standard | 11.5; 12.5; 13; 14; 15; 16; 18; 19; 20; 25; 30 mm | yes | Uses a 54-system cap – a wide choice of caps. |
| H61-20 | 61 with a large coin-style cap | 12.5; 14; 15; 17; 20 mm | yes | A solid look – an alternative to zinc alloy caps. |
| H61-40 | 61 with a double-sided male part | 12.5; 14; 15; 17; 20 mm (mini version: 10.6 mm) | yes | 6 parts – the snap works from both sides of the product. |
| H61-50 | 61 with a plastic cap | 14; 15; 17; 18; 20 mm | no | Cap in a custom colour; white and black are standard. |
| H61-55 | Mini 61 with a plastic cap | 11.5; 12.5; 13; 14; 15; 16; 17; 18; 19; 20; 25; 30 mm | Logo printed on the cap. | |
| H61-60 | 61 with a plastic segment | 12.5; 14; 15; 17; 20 mm | yes | The plastic segment gives a soft, quiet and even click. |
H61-10 is the all-round model with eleven sizes from 11.5 to 30 mm and uses a 54-system cap, so the choice of look is wide. H61-40 is for reversible jackets, coats and trench coats: with 6 parts the snap works from both sides. H61-60 has a plastic segment that gives a soft, quiet and even click – convenient for garments that are opened often.
Special heavy-duty systems for coats and trench coats
When the standard 61 system is not enough or you want a different construction, take a look at the special systems. They combine a cap from the 54 or 61 system with a stronger bottom part and an aluminium or steel rivet.
| Code | Model | Sizes | Logo | Uses |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| SP-10 | Combined system with 54 cap | 10.5; 11.5; 12.5; 13; 14; 15; 16; 17; 18; 19; 20; 25; 30 mm | yes | jackets, denim jackets, trench coats, coats, bags |
| SP-20 | Combined system, brass and zinc alloy | 10.5; 11.5; 12.5; 13; 14; 15; 16; 17; 18; 19; 20; 25; 30 mm | yes | coats and trench coats |
| SP-30 | With rivet and 54 cap | 10.5; 11.5; 12.5; 13; 14; 15; 16; 17; 18; 19; 20; 25; 30 mm | yes | coats, trench coats, leather goods |
| SP-40 | Heavy-duty system with aluminium rivet | 13; 13.3; 13.5 mm (mini with 54 cap, large with 61 cap) | yes | jackets, denim jackets, trench coats, coats |
| SP-50 | Slim system with 54 cap | 10.85; 10.95; 11 mm | yes | jackets, denim jackets, trench coats, coats |
| SP-60 | With a coin-style prong cap and rivet | on request | no | jackets, denim jackets, trench coats, coats |
| SP-80 | Stainless snap | on request | no | jackets, denim jackets, trench coats, coats; products exposed to moisture |
| SP-90 | Heavy-duty system without logo | on request | no | jackets, coats, trench coats |
When to choose a rivet
With SP-30 the bottom part is a rivet – suitable for leather and dense materials, where a post with a tube is hard to curl. SP-40 is a heavy-duty system with an aluminium rivet in two cap sizes: mini with a 54 cap and large with a 61 cap.
Finish restrictions
Some special models are only available in certain finishes: SP-50 and SP-90 – only nickel and black nickel colours (nickel free), and SP-60 – only nickel colour (nickel free). If the collection requires a different finish, choose a model from the 61 system or SP-10.
How to choose the size for a jacket
The cap diameter is chosen according to the proportions of the style and the position of the snap:
- jacket placket – usually 15 – 17 mm;
- denim jacket – 14 – 17 mm, often with a coin-style cap such as H61-20;
- cuffs and pocket flaps – one or two sizes smaller than the placket;
- coat or bulky jacket – 18 – 25 mm, to be in proportion with the heavy fabric;
- trench coat – 15 – 20 mm, often with a plastic cap in the fabric colour such as H61-50.
More important than the diameter is the length of the bottom part relative to the thickness of the stack. Measure the finished placket – with all layers – and do a test setting.
Sew-on and stainless options
For wool coats and multi-layer products where you do not want to pierce the fabric, an alternative is sew-on snap fasteners – they are sewn on by hand or by machine. For garments often exposed to moisture – raincoats, oilskins, work jackets – there is SP-80 made of stainless steel.
Setting on outerwear
- Do not set the snap on a seam or edge where the thickness changes sharply.
- Reinforce the area with interfacing if the face fabric is soft.
- Use a die for exactly the right system and size and adjust the impact force on the first pieces.
- Check the fastening with gloves on too – the snap must be easy to grip.
Logo on the cap
The metal caps of the 61 and special systems take an embossed logo, and the mini 61 with a plastic cap a printed logo. Models H61-50, SP-60, SP-80 and SP-90 come without a logo. You will find more about branding on the branding page. For a coordinated look, add eyelets for the hood and metal buttons in the same finish.
A sample for your jacket
Polkom, as a manufacturer, offers the 61 system and the special heavy-duty systems and makes caps with your logo to order. Send us the fabric or a finished detail via the contact page – we will do a test setting and suggest a model. All systems are in the snap buttons category.
