Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Textile labels for sewing are attached to garments with thread – in the collar seam, side seam, or sewn around the edge on the fabric. The sewing method depends on the label fold: centrally folded labels are sewn into a seam, while straight or edge-folded labels are sewn along the edge with a straight or zigzag stitch. Use a fine polyester thread matching the label colour and a needle suitable for the fabric.
Why sewing is the most reliable method
A sewn-in label does not peel off during washing or ironing, is unaffected by fabric softeners, and stays securely in place throughout the garment’s life. That is why nearly all brands use textile labels for logos, size, and composition. Self-adhesive and thermal labels have their place, but for frequently washed clothing, thread sewing is more dependable.
What you need
- Thread – polyester sewing thread with a thickness close to the main garment seams. Fine thread creates a delicate seam and keeps the label flexible. See our range of sewing threads.
- Needle – use a ballpoint needle for knits and a standard or microtex needle for woven fabrics. Size 70–80 is suitable for most labels.
- Pins or clips – for precise positioning before sewing.
- Template – useful for serial sewing to mark the exact placement with chalk or a stencil, ensuring consistent label positioning relative to the seam.
How to sew textile labels depending on the fold
Centrally folded label (in seam)
The label is folded in half and the open ends are placed between two fabric layers before sewing the seam – for example, in the collar or side seam. The seam passes through both ends of the label, which then hangs like a flag after turning. Make sure the seam catches at least 5–8 mm of the label to prevent it from pulling out.
Edge-folded label
The two ends are folded under at the back. The label is placed on the fabric and sewn with a straight stitch along the folded edges. This hides raw cut edges, making it suitable for t-shirt and blouse necklines. For knits, a narrow zigzag stitch can be used to prevent the stitch from breaking when stretched.
Straight-cut label
Sewn around the entire perimeter, usually 1–2 mm from the edge. Suitable for linings, inner parts of jackets, bags, and blankets. If the material is synthetic and edges are heat-cut, the seam holds them tightly to the fabric, preventing irritation.
Miter fold
The edges are folded at an angle, and the label is sewn into the seam at the top, leaving the bottom free. Commonly used on shirt collars and the top seams of curtains and blankets.
Sewing by machine – step by step
- Wash or steam a sample label if it is cotton to avoid puckering after the first wash.
- Position the label and secure it with a pin or clip.
- Set the stitch length to about 2.5 mm. Too small a stitch perforates the label and may tear it.
- Sew slowly along the fold or 1–2 mm from the edge. Make 2–3 backstitches at the start and end.
- Trim threads closely and check that the label lies flat without wrinkles.
Hand sewing
For handmade items, knits, or repairing finished garments, sew the label by hand. Use a hidden stitch or edge stitch with small, even stitches. Add an extra stitch at each corner for strength. Do not pull the thread tight on knits – leave the seam slightly loose to avoid puckering.
Where exactly to sew the label
The brand label is usually placed at the centre back of the collar or inside the waistband. The composition label is sewn into the left side seam, 8–15 cm above the hem, so the wearer can easily find it. The size label is sewn next to or below the main label. More on label placement can be found in our article about where garment labels are sewn.
Common mistakes
- Thick contrasting thread – the seam shows on the front and the label becomes stiff.
- Straight stitch on knits that breaks when worn.
- Seam over printed text – part of the information becomes unreadable. When ordering, allow a sewing margin of at least 3–5 mm on each sewn side.
- Label sewn on all four sides of a t-shirt neck – causes loss of collar elasticity.
- Unchecked shrinkage of cotton labels.
Serial sewing in production
In serial production, labels are usually sewn in during the same operation as the garment seam – for example, when sewing the collar or closing the side seam with an overlock. This saves a separate operation but requires labels to be prepared and ready at the machine. Therefore, it is convenient for labels to arrive cut and folded, not on a roll. If your factory uses an automatic label sewing machine, specify the size and fold in advance to match its requirements. For manual feeding, a template with marked distance from the seam helps ensure all pieces in the batch look uniform.
How to order labels easy to sew
When requesting a quote, specify whether you will sew the label into a seam or around the perimeter, and we will recommend the appropriate fold and sewing margins. Polkom is a manufacturer of custom textile labels with logos, as well as composition labels, offering samples before serial orders and delivery across the EU. Contact us via the contact page, attaching your logo and size.
