Tuxedo Buttons – Covered Buttons, Shirt Studs and the Rules

Polkom
Tuxedo Buttons – Covered Buttons, Shirt Studs and the Rules

Tuxedo buttons are traditionally covered in the same satin or grosgrain as the lapel facing, or they are polished black horn or corozo buttons. A single-breasted tuxedo has one button on the front, about 30L–32L, and three or four 24L buttons on the sleeve. The dress shirt is fastened with studs instead of visible buttons, and the trousers have inside buttons for braces.

Tuxedo buttons: the jacket

Number

  • Single-breasted jacket: most often one button on the front. A two-button jacket is found, but it is less classic.
  • Double-breasted jacket: 4x1 or 6x2 layouts, plus an inside button.
  • Sleeves: three or four buttons, of the same type as the front one.
  • Inside pocket: a small button matching the lining.

Type

The classic rule is that the buttons repeat the lapel facing. If the lapel is satin, the buttons are covered in satin. If it is grosgrain, in grosgrain. That is why covered buttons are the most typical choice for a tuxedo. An alternative is polished black horn or corozo buttons, which also look elegant and are easier to care for. See the fabric-covered buttons.

Colour

On black and midnight blue tuxedos the buttons are black. On a white tuxedo or an evening jacket in burgundy, bottle green or velvet, the buttons can be in the colour of the lapel or in black.

Covered buttons: satin or grosgrain

CoveringLookSuitable for
SatinSmooth sheenSatin lapel, a glossier evening look
GrosgrainFine ribbed, matteGrosgrain lapel, a more restrained and classic look
Jacket fabricSame as the main fabricEvening jackets in velvet or wool

For covered buttons, the fabric must be thin and dense so it wraps the base without creases. If the jacket has a grosgrain lapel, a suitable grosgrain ribbon can also be used for the trouser side stripe.

The dress shirt and studs

A classic tuxedo shirt is not fastened with ordinary visible buttons on the front. Instead it has:

  • Studs – decorative fasteners with a post that are inserted through buttonholes on both sides of the placket. There are usually three or four, in black, mother-of-pearl or metal, matching the cufflinks.
  • A concealed placket – a more contemporary option in which the buttons are under a fabric flap and not visible.
  • A double cuff for cufflinks.
  • Small flat buttons on the collar stand and the sleeve placket.

If the shirt is designed for studs, the buttonholes on the placket are made on both sides, not just on one.

The tuxedo trousers

Tuxedo trousers traditionally have no belt loops and are worn with braces or side adjusters. That is why they have six inside buttons for braces, usually flat, about 22L–26L. At the front of the waistband there is a button or a hook, and the fly often has buttons or a concealed zip. The trouser buttons are not visible, so they are functional – strong, flat and matching the fabric.

Complete list of tuxedo buttons

PartButtonsSize
Jacket, front1 (single-breasted)30L–32L
Jacket, sleeves3–4 per sleeve24L
Jacket, inside1–218L–20L
Shirtstuds + small buttons on the collar and sleeve14L–16L
Trousers6 for braces + waistband22L–26L
Waistcoat or cummerbund3–4 for a waistcoat20L–24L
Sparesone of each type—

How it differs from the buttons on an ordinary suit

On a business suit the buttons are a functional and style detail, but they are usually matte and matching the fabric. On a tuxedo the buttons are part of the evening ensemble together with the lapel, the trouser stripes, the bow tie and the cummerbund. That is why they must “speak” the same language as these elements – sheen against sheen, grosgrain against grosgrain. Another difference is the number: a classic tuxedo has a minimum of visible buttons, whereas a business jacket usually has two or three. This economy is the reason every button on a tuxedo is noticed and why its quality is particularly important.

Rental tuxedos and large runs

Ateliers and companies that rent out tuxedos have specific needs. The garments go through many cleanings and wearings, so the buttons must withstand dry cleaning and frequent use. A practical solution is covered buttons on the front, where they are most visible, and polished black buttons on the sleeves. It is also important to have spare buttons of the same style so that a lost or damaged button can be replaced quickly without changing the whole set.

Care

A tuxedo is dry cleaned. Covered buttons tolerate professional cleaning, but with frequent cleaning the satin can wear at the edge. That is why some ateliers keep spare covered buttons or use polished black buttons on the sleeves, where friction is greatest. When ironing, the iron should not press on covered buttons, so as not to leave a shiny mark.

Common mistakes

  • buttons that do not match the lapel facing – a satin lapel with matte plastic buttons;
  • a jacket with several front buttons on a classic single-breasted tuxedo;
  • a tuxedo shirt with visible plastic buttons;
  • trousers without buttons for braces;
  • covered buttons in a fabric that is too thick, which look lumpy.

Buttons for eveningwear from Polkom

Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags from Sofia. In the men’s buttons section you will find styles for jackets and suits, and to order we make buttons covered in your fabric, polished buttons and buttons with a logo. Send an inquiry via the contact page.

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FAQ

Frequently asked questions

How many buttons does a classic tuxedo have?
A classic single-breasted tuxedo jacket has one button on the front and three or four buttons on each sleeve. Double-breasted tuxedos usually follow a 4x1 or 6x2 layout, plus an inside button. Inside pocket buttons are added to the jacket, and the trousers have six inside buttons for braces. The shirt is fastened with studs.
Do tuxedo buttons have to be covered in satin?
It is not compulsory, but it is the most traditional option. The classic rule is that the buttons repeat the lapel facing – satin or grosgrain. Polished black horn or corozo buttons are also accepted and look elegant. Less suitable are matte plastic buttons, which clash with the sheen of the lapel.
What are the studs on a tuxedo shirt?
Studs are decorative fasteners with a post that replace the ordinary buttons on the front of a tuxedo shirt. They are inserted through buttonholes on both sides of the placket, and there are usually three or four. They are made of metal, mother-of-pearl or a black material and often match the cufflinks. A shirt for studs must have buttonholes on both sides.
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