Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Herringbone tape is a strong, dense and almost non-stretch woven tape with a characteristic zigzag pattern resembling a fish skeleton. It is made of cotton, polyester or a blend, in widths from a few millimetres to about 10 cm. In garment production it is used to reinforce seams, bind edges and make ties, hanging loops and handles. In Bulgaria it is also often called keeper or keper tape.
Herringbone tape – where the name comes from
The name describes the pattern. The tape is woven in a twill (diagonal) weave in which the direction of the diagonals changes every few threads. This forms alternating slanted stripes – like the bones on both sides of a fish’s spine. In English the weave is called herringbone, and the tape itself herringbone tape.
“Keper tape” comes from the German word Köper, which means exactly twill (diagonal) weave. The spelling “keeper tape”, often seen in searches, is most likely a Latinised version of the same word rather than the English word keeper. In practice all three names are used for the same group of tapes.
Herringbone and twill tape – is there a difference?
Strictly speaking, yes. Twill tape has continuous diagonals in one direction, while true herringbone has diagonals that change direction and form a zigzag. Functionally, however, the two are almost the same: dense, stable lengthways, easy to sew. In the trade and in sewing practice in Bulgaria both are sold as “herringbone tape” or “keper tape”. When ordering for a specific look, ask for a sample to see the pattern.
Main properties
- Stability lengthways – the tape practically does not stretch. This is the main reason it is used for reinforcement.
- Flexibility across the width – it bends around the curves of necklines and sleeves without gathering much.
- Density and strength – it can take load as a handle or tie.
- Clean edges – a woven edge that does not fray lengthways.
- Easy to sew – sewn with an ordinary machine and a standard needle.
- Matte, textile look – also suitable as a visible decorative element, especially in workwear, aprons and bags.
Materials
| Material | Look and feel | Behaviour in the wash | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton | Matte, soft, natural | May shrink slightly in the first wash | Aprons, home textiles, eco bags, reinforcement on cotton fabrics |
| Polyester | Smoother, slightly shiny | Stable, no shrinkage, colourfast | Workwear, bags, frequently used products |
| Blend | Close to cotton | Minimal shrinkage | General use |
What it is used for
Reinforcing and stabilising
Shoulder seams on knitwear and jackets, necklines, pocket openings, the lapel roll line on jackets – anywhere the seam must not stretch. The tape is sewn in with the seam and takes the load.
Binding and finishing
Inside seams of jackets, trousers and bags are bound with herringbone tape for a clean, durable finish without overlocking.
Ties, hanging loops and handles
Ties on aprons and bags, drawstrings for trousers, hanging loops for towels and garments, handles on cotton bags. Here the tape is both functional and visible.
Marking and packaging
The tape is also used for tying samples, marking batches, packaging textiles and as a carrier for a printed logo.
Herringbone, grosgrain or satin
The three ribbons are often confused, but they have different roles. Herringbone is a working tape – strong, matte, functional. Grosgrain ribbon is ribbed crosswise, with a more refined look, and is used for hat bands, belts and visible decorative details. Satin ribbon is smooth, shiny and purely decorative. A comparison of all types is in the ribbons section.
How to recognise quality tape
- Density. Hold the tape up to the light – there should be no loose areas. Loose tape stretches and loses its purpose as reinforcement.
- Straight edges. The edges are parallel, without waves and without protruding threads. A wavy edge indicates uneven tension during weaving.
- Consistent width. Measure at several points along the roll. A deviation of more than a millimetre causes problems when machine sewing with a guide.
- Colourfastness. Rub a damp white cloth over coloured tape. If colour transfers, the tape will stain light fabric in the wash.
- Behaviour in the wash. Measure 50 cm, wash and measure again. This tells you the real shrinkage of cotton tape.
How to choose herringbone tape
- Define the function. Hidden reinforcement needs a thin, narrow tape; a visible tie or handle a wider, denser one.
- Choose the material to suit the fabric. For cotton products – cotton or a blend; for synthetics and workwear – polyester.
- Decide on the width. 6–12 mm for reinforcement, 15–25 mm for ties and hanging loops, 25–40 mm for handles.
- Check the shrinkage. If you use cotton tape on a product that will be washed, pre-soak it.
- Specify the colour. Natural, white, black or to Pantone.
All widths and materials are described in the herringbone tape category.
Herringbone tape from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of haberdashery and accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags, based in Sofia. We supply herringbone tape in cotton, polyester and blends in various widths and colours, with the option of dyeing to Pantone and printing with a logo, to customers across the EU. Minimum quantities depend on the article. For samples and a quote, write to us via the contact page.
